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Ole Scratch, you're not that far away from me - if you're ever down around the coast, plan to drop by. I'm sure we'll have something to sip on and good conversation.

Good questions - I've etched Damascus the same way you do, but after seeing that video with the Indian knifemakers (lockbacks?) using sulfuric acid to etch with I've been wondering myself. Get some battery acid (which is around 30% sulfuric acid), but not sure how strong the acid needs to be...

I have no idea what wood it is, but sure looks like it would make nice handles.... and the heart wood not even need stabilizing.

It looks good to me - and remember, everything you make is "higher end" {g}

Patricia at IMG can handle your stencil needs. I order the stencil material from her and they last a long time. Call her and chat - she's very helpful https://img-electromark.com/ 800.775.3824 or email at info@img-electromark.com I ordered new stencil material (film, developer) a couple weeks ago

You got that chef knife coming along nicely. Good job on the stencil mark. Did you make the stencil also? If so, you did a good job. As an aside here, any idea how many marks you get per stencil?

I would think 50 grit scratches could be a stress point for breaks for sure. I usually grind to around 400 grit before HT'ing 'n tempering.

They don't break often, but it can happen. I'm using a 3/8" carbide ball in my hammer. I did have one chef knife to break. I don't remember the details very well, perhaps I hit it too hard? Didn't have blade laying perfectly flat? Not sure but it sure did break in half.

Since you've got that all priced out, and is that a spreadsheet file? What was the total price if you don't mind me asking?

OK, time for an update to our laser thread. Last week I took delivery of a Gweike G2 Pro 30 watt fiber laser with 150mm lens (not focal length of lens, but coverage area). I've played around with some SS and carbon steel engraving and am VERY impressed with the results. Still gotta get brass...

Well Hello yourself - just what part of Alabama are you in? Fill out the profile and you might be next door {g} My profile shows I'm in Baldwin Co, just across the bay from Mobile - anywhere neat you?

You gonna love it

That gives an explanation of why they've not shipped, but there is still NO excuse for charging the card until ready for shipping, or at least building forge so shipment is only a couple of days away.

A slurry is really needed - just chunks of dry ice won't get the temp down nearly so well as a slurry. All those air pockets between the chunks (even crushed) have a negative affect on getting the blade down to the -100°F range. I would think 10 liters is about the smallest size to be useful...

I agree with Taz, not sure there's any real world difference between DI and LN. It does "seem" like I get an extra 1/2 point, or maybe a full point extra R\c hardness with LN than I got with DI. I wouldn't bet more than a nickel on that though. Real world, not a big deal

WOW - Oct 15th? That's almost 5 months! That's surely an extended hold Dewar. My el-cheapo 10L Dewar will hold around 6 to 8 wks with normal use. It's stored inside a climate controlled room so isn't exposed to hot weather. I've checked the temp up in the vapors when dewar is over half...

Many dewars have a 50mm opening which is 1.9685" or 1/32" less than actual 2". I find a 2" blade that's 1/32" less is no big deal, just list as a 50mm blade. In the real world I find it's much easier to get a 1.95" blade thru the opening.

Bob, note that is only 9.7" tall, so would have only maybe 6" of space for a blade. Also as mentioned N2 can't be in a sealed container. Nor should it ever be transported inside an enclosed car due to the escaping N2 vapors. I think this is the item you're referring to: https://a.co/d/0tA9OrK...

Bummer - hang in there, it'll get better

Mike, I've been waiting for somebody else to chime in with more knowledge than I have. I did find the following by Kevin Cashen on https://www.americanbladesmith.org/community/heat-treatment-and-metallurgy/snap-temper-question/ ************************* Below 300F in simple carbon systems all...