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My original stencils came from TUS. Kind of awkward dealing with them but the stencils worked fine for me. I needed new stencils and decided to go with IMG. OMG incredible service like you use to expect as normal 20 years ago. Got my stencils quick and the knowledge I got talking to them about...

I originally used TUS but after a lot of research went with IMG when I needed new stencils even though I had to pay art fee. I don't regret it at all. IMG was AWESOME to deal with! Awesome customer support. Customer support like you experienced in the 80's

I've used Lenox bandsaw blades both in my profession and in the hobby of knife making for eons. As far as I'm aware they are still American made. But without a doubt I've never been disappointed in a Lenox blade.

There are TONS more experienced people here who can help you other than me. With that said dump the white spacers and use black. Dark spacer material blends in with glue way way better than white. Second dump the 416 SS bolsters and use Nickle Silver. Way harder to get a great finish other than...

Yeap I hate those lengths as I always end up with waste. But otherwise great service from Alpha. I really like knife steel sold in 18" or 36". Then if you don't want to pay freight on 36" you could request it cut that would best suit your knife with less waste. I'm sure it was time consuming and...

I only deal with SS in my HT oven. But my understanding only SS needs foil wrap. Oil quenched steel would need to be taken out of foil wrap before oil dip quench and that takes way too much time for proper heat treat.

Was taught basic knife making from a world class muzzleloader maker. He used J E Moser's aniline alcohol soluble Dye stain red maple. Works for me. Used for years for bow building and knife building. IF that doesn't high light the curl there's no curl.

Man I feel your pain. A good dog is just hard to forget. Good luck in your endeavors and quest to find a knife to honor a great friend.

Man I'm interested. I'd love to hear more!

I had a partial knee replacement. At first it was all great. 3 months in I thought I'd made a mistake. Long story short 8 months in and all is well.

I hate to say it but's from your 6" arbor extension. Too much slop where it slides over your motor shaft so when you tighten set screw it goes off center. I used a setup like that and never had a problem but it's annoying. I ended up buying a buffer from Eastwood Tools and love it.

Love it

Dang I can't imagine. Bring it on. Thanks for sharing

I cut a thin metal plate in the shape of my oscillating tool then used industrial Velcro to stick it to the oscillating sander attachment. I use the small 3M feathering glue like I do on my disc sander. Works for me.

And it stores better than gasoline. A local WV company makes conversions for most generators to work off propane.

I hate to tell you but don't trust your doctor on the carpal tunnel fix. Been there done that. Several friends who can attest to that also.

NICE! I love my NR but I don't have the tilt.

90% of the panels that are rated 20/30 or 20/40 are specifically designed to put SLIM line breakers (don't confuse them with TANDEM breakers) in them instead of a full size breaker. Some are designed to only accept slim lines in the bottom 6 spaces. I'm just saying TANDEM breakers are NOT CODE...

A "PIGGY-BACK-BREAKER" is a breaker that fits in a single pole breaker slot and will have 2 reset buttons on them. Depending on the panel manufacturer most of them make them. So for every 1 of these you put in you pick up a Single Space. If you put 2 in your panel you can pick up 2 spaces and...

That's why I have a toaster oven controlled by a PID. My heat treat treat oven takes forever to get down to tempering temps. I've also heard leaving the heat treat oven open to rapidly cool down is bad for the elements. IDK