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Not really a concern for me I guess, but I don’t do enough knives right now for it to be an issue.

Are they waterstones? Those should be soaked for a bit, it helps break down the stone so it will abrade the steel better. If you don’t, the surface of the stone will tend to “gloss over” for lack of better term. It will give a smoother edge, which could be what you’re experiencing. The stones...

I ate a lot of squirrel when I was younger. I think it was because we were poor or something. I like it. If that stuff is anything like regular G10, I doubt anything will stain it.

I preheat the oven in my kitchen to 300° and put them in there. Check your actual oven temperature though before you do that. They can vary a lot. I have to set mine to 290 to get 300. You don’t want to overshoot it and accidentally snap temper them hotter than your actual temper will be.

Winter time here in Minnesota. I don’t have anything going on to post. :( I hope to have some new stuff to show off soon. I got some super rad things coming up. Thanks for sharing Jesse

Tmr, where do you find your moose antler? I like using it too, but I’ve been buying mine off flint knapping suppliers. It’s kinda hit or miss

I don’t think it is necessary, but it probably doesn’t hurt. I do it to mine, by filling the drilled cavity with a clear coat epoxy, and running it through the vac chamber, then dumping the excess out after it’s sucked in. I don’t use CJ because it is heat cured, and that much heat can make...

Might have been a bit too hot, probably didn’t soak long enough. That would be my guess. When I was using my forge to heat treat, I would bury the edge of the blade in a tray full of sand. It keeps it stood up, and keeps the edge from warping, and more importantly, overheating. I would let the...

300-400° during what? Austenize? Tempering? Did you normalize it before heat treat? It’s really hard to say without more information.

Hello from Minnesota! Glad you found this craft, it’s pretty fun.

For the people that make titanium laminates, I have a question. Can you laminate pure nickel in with titanium/zirconium mixes? I’m considering trying to make some in the future, and thought it would look cool if I had bright silver lines in an anodized pattern.

Do you have any pictures of it? I don’t have any ideas, but a picture might help. Between wood and Micarta, I can see the wood moving and causing this, if it looks like what I think it does. Between resin/micarta, maybe temperature differences could cause movement.

none here in Fargo, sorry. I tried

I’ll check the one in town (Fargo ND) tomorrow and see if they got any.

What carbon steel was it? I’ve done that with air hardening carbon steels

That’s a sweet ride! Is that a pair of carbs peeking out from under the hood?

I have an old Arisaka type 30 Japanese bayonet that is missing the handle. It isn’t worth much, and I thought it would be a fun project to kinda fix it up. What kind of wood was used on these handles? I’d like to use the same stuff they originally did if I could. I believe it is early 1942 model.

I’ve used AU….don’t get it TOO hot while forging. It kinda falls apart.

I been using TUS Tech too. I like them.

I’d like to learn that, I will have to see if they still sell that book.