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I have a Bader B3. I like it, but I don’t kinda. It has a 1 1/4” tool arm, and the aftermarket tool arms I’ve found are 1 1/2” which kinda limits your options. Something to consider when you are searching. Those Brodbecks are pretty cool

I’m gonna keep eating meat, drinking coffee, etc, and not really worry about any of that stuff. I’ve already died a few times, I ain’t scared.

USA Knifemaker just listed their new no weld grinders. They look pretty nice. I would buy one if I didn’t already have a grinder

Welcome!

That MagnaCut is my favorite stainless steel by far. Spendy, but I do like it.

Just a lil tip…before I had my HT oven, I would do it in my forge. I would put the knife edge down in a metal tray with dry sand in it. The spine half of the blade would be exposed. I would allow the spine to get hot, then lift it up out of the sand, and the edge will heat up to temp very...

I have a pottery kiln thermocouple in my forge. I think it was a couple hundred dollars. I’d get one of those. I like 4140 for hammers. I use 5160 for most other tools.

Yeah this is kinda a new thing for me too. I’ll have pictures when it’s done

I think it will. Usually people use what appears to be 12-16 ounce leather. The cool thing is, if you buff it with 0000 steel wool “around” the handle, it will preferentially eat away the flesh side of the leather. It should leave a fine “ribbed” texture if all goes according to plan

This stacked leather takedown handle has been kicking my butt lol. I used 2 ounce leather, and each layer had to be glued then tapered according to its place on the handle. Each layer was punched just a little undersized, then wet molded to the tang. I’ll have to count them some time, I lost...

I’ve never heard of 1095 Electrite. Is that different from regular 1095?

That’s more knives than I make in a year. Yeah, I’d say it’s not bad!

I start sanding at 80 grit. I use nothing up to 320. After 320, I’ll use Windex up to 1000. If I go beyond that, I use WD40. That’s to prevent spotting. On stainless I use Windex all the way. Seems to cut better than oil.

Does wiping it on your pants count?

That will work. That’s how they would reverse equipment running off line shafts back in the day. Might be able to wire your motor in reverse too.

I think I would have done domed pins, but seeing as how you’re past that point, masking tape works well as previously mentioned.

Rust bluing might be the ticket. It’s my favorite finish for carbon steel. You can do a lot of different things with it as far as surface effects, and it is very durable. Plus, if it ever rusts, you just hit it with some steel wool and it’s like it never happened

I haven’t done a direct comparison, but I’ve used that stuff on hardened and unhardened steel and never noticed a difference. I use it instead of layout dye sometimes when I want lines to stay for a long time. I don’t know how they “wear” over time.

That top one has sort of an upside down hamony thing going on. That’s pretty cool looking!

I bought some stainless flatware that had stickers on them that were impossible to remove, I tossed them in the HT oven at 900 to take the stickers off. Colored them purpleish. There’s still traces of purple on the forks, that have been used and ran through the dishwasher for about 10 years, so...