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I’ve never owned one of my “good” knives. They have all been ones that fell into the “to good to scrap, not good enough to sell” category. Today I decided I would make myself a “good” knife. Little edc in W2. It’s .300” thick, but “actually” a 1/16” thick lightly convexed blade with a hollow...

Top and bottom radiused just a bit so it wasn’t sharp. More of a chamfer than anything

I been running one for about a year. Really nice. Belt seems to run smoother on it too. You’ll like it. Got mine from the Boss

I sort of wish it would work too. About an hour into sanding……lol

Congratulations! I barely figured out how to program mine well enough to work. Looks like you got it figured out!

I have a 36” radius platen. The reason I’m doing it this way is I want that super thick spine by the handle so it’s comfortable on the finger. I can’t do that with a radius platen without making the knife excessively heavy. That’s a purdy grind you have there!

It is roughed in to 60 grit with a 5/8 wheel as carefully as I can, then the radius’s are carved into the plunges with carbide burrs and round stones in a dremel. Then it is shaped from that point on using hones, a multitude of sanding blocks, and lots of elbow grease. I constantly go over it...

Just got the plunges into this 7” nakiri. It’s weird how knives go from “just a little more” to “oh my god what did I do” so quickly. Made it through the OMG stage, now it’s smooth sailing.

Thank you!

Finally finished this one. If you look at this and think, “Nate, that looks like it was a pain in the ass to grind”, you would be correct. Really cool concept that worked out perfect. I wanted to make a blade that was stiff, lightweight, and had well defined plunges and stuff so it would have a...

Spent the entire day sanding this thing. Got it up to 600 finally. Shoulder is killin me. You all know…..

Hello, good to have you

I thought it looked like some decarb on there too. It can be pretty thick. Last one I did I took about .005 off each side to get to “good” steel.

After I knock the handle off the blade, I peel off the tape and clean the blade. I will shape the handle down, drill my pin hole, and completely finish the blade and handle separately. The handle block/bolster will look sorta like this. It fits absolutely perfect to the blade. Once everything is...

Next I wrap good ol duct tape around the handle block to create a “well” pretty much like the red paper here. The blade then is inserted into the hole in the block and the well extends a fair bit onto the blade, about 1.5 inches. Next I mix up some epoxy and black pigment and pour it into the...

Here you see my handle block and bolster. I started by drilling two .25 holes and wobbling the bit to create a slot in the tang, although you could just drill one larger hole into the block. I then ground off the front of the block at an angle, and finished it to 120 grit. I found that it needs...

Figure I’ll share how I do some of my handles, after the thread about wa handles. I did not come up with this idea, this came from an ancient Finnish knife I had. They would burn the tang into a piece of wood, then carve designs into the wood handle, wrap the handle in damp leather, and pour it...

The K980 looks pretty close to 80CRV2. I think you could expect similar results with similar HT. Bohler says on their website to use an austenizing temp of 800c/1472f and oil quench. That all checks out. The S200, they have that info on their site as well, and the recommend about 2250f and...

I’ll post it up tomorrow morning. I’ll have to make a couple drawings in the morning, I don’t have pictures, but it’s really quick and easy.

Yeah that’s a wa handle thing. Might want to go a little bigger than .25. That’s a pretty small tang, I believe most people are doing 3/8”. It is a pretty neat construction process. I have a different method for chefs knives I really like. It’s very similar but involves resin casting instead of...