I'll talk about the steel you are planning to use. While any steel will work, I consider 80 CRV2 better for large knives like choppers. To me it's basically a tougher 5160 like steel. I prefer either 1084 or 1075 for carbon steel hunters.
I started about 14 years ago as a cutler putting handles on other folks blanks. In 2011 I took an ABS Intro to Bladesmithing class, and been forging my own ever since. I forge about 90%, and do about 10% stock removal.
I'm having a bit of a problem seeing this as a tool in the spirit of the forum.
Looks more like a promotional vide for investors. You might want to look at joining DYI cooking groups. You might better luck with that demographic of users.
I would suggest reading volume one for the basics, and Chuck's DVD set for more advanced things. Both have a lot of info. The book has a list of what tools you need for each project. To start you really don't need much.
Setting up my mill. The real work of cleaning and tramming it has yet to begin. Had to move the whole shop around to fit it in...
Box one of tooling and accessories. I think I have spent on more them than the mill cost me! LOL
I've used final thickness of anywhere between .80" to 1/8".
Most of the ones I've made have been 1084 or the thinner ones 15N20. I differentially heat treat in my shop. I rarely use stainless as I forge 95% of my blades.
The HT is how I achieve my flex.
Ed, look at the Outlaw II from Outlaw Waterjet. Matt has a nice machine that will take your 1.5" tool arms. Mike Stewart of Bark River Knives turned me on to him.
He was at Blade this year with his grinder line. All my friends that saw it there rated it very well.
I'm looking to get one...
I support insulation and drywall. If you are going to spend time there make it nice and enjoyable to work in too. In the long run it will be worth it. Especially as you find yourself working there more.