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Hmmm. Another idea of what could be done with my EXTREMELY limited supply of small pieces of old growth Brazilian. I still have a fair amount of super dark blackwood. Now tell us how you did the inletting. ;)

Now all you need is a small wheel version for integral grinding. :D

Yes. it can be less expensive. :eek: Do you weld up your 410 san mai billet edges?

I have enough W2, CFV, 1084, 1075, 5160, O1, L6, etc in stock to make like 700+ knives. What is giving my sticker shock is the peripheral stuff like 15N20 and non-blade steels for fittings, cladding etc.

I use it for guards, buttcaps, etc. Even after cleaning out my shop, I still have a couple of 36 x 2 x 1/4 bars of 416. I was looking at 410 or 420 for san mai cladding.

So is $16 a pound what passes for reasonable these days? That what that adds up to and it is like 25% more than stainless blade steel. So much for the old adage about steel being a very small percentage of your costs. ;)

So why do these these steels so expensive? I found 2 sources, Alro and McMaster Carr that has 420 bars for hundreds of dollars of like 1/4 inch x 2 inch flats 12-24 inches long. Like over $100 a pound!!! 410 was not quite so bad, but Jantz had stuff for lalmost $20 a pound!!!!!

The other day, I was wondering how birds eye crushed W's would look. Now I know. ;) Not quite as dramatic as the some laddered blades I have seen but still different.

Yes. A2 if I recall. Nathan Carothers platen.

I have two platens, one 18 inch radius (36 inch wheel) and one that is a 36". I use them a lot for griding clips and swedges. Get the radius and then just lay the blade over for the swedge. I have done a couple of knives with the "big wheel" shallow hollow grind. Works well, but you have to...

Yes.

I do believe that those medium fast oils are 11-13 oil and the speed is detrmned by the temperature. 120f or 180F gives you 13 second and 150F give you 11 second. That was what Houghton said IIRC. Their oil is also repackaged and sold by Brownells as Tough Quench, at least last time that I...

Both. I know some people use parks 50 for everything, but my experience said that at some point you’re gonna need something like AAA for thin cross sections of deeper hardening steel. You only need one blade coming apart on you to make it worth it. Unfortunately, the AAA type stuff does require...

One of the issues is that you have to figure out how to heat the oil unless you are using Parks 50 in Florida like me. I used a Home Depot turkey fryer for years, but never used the burner. I just heated bars in the forge and used them when I was using AAA type oil or when it wasw below 60F...

One of the first knifemaking DVD's that I bought was the Charles Ochs basic forging video where he made a 7 inch fighter from 52100. He took a 7 inch piece of 1/4 thick bar stock and forged the though tang knife from it. Combination fo thinning a little bit and distal taper made it work.

Interesting, I am familiar with Drager because they have made rebreathers for diving for ages.

Bad news. Because your knife is attractive and looks rather ergonomic, you fail your Instgram Knifemaker Club entrance exam. ;) Try for a more clunky and painful design next time. :D

The only disadvantage to a small mill/drill over a big floor standing drill press is length of stroke. If you ever plan on making hidden tang knives with guards, a mini-mill is what you want.

Cool. Where in Florida are you?

I was gonna say that those fiber optic pins are kinda funky. Where did you get them?