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You are most welcome John and they all look good from here!

re: Thread length - using 7-9oz leather with a welt (i.e. 3 thicknesses) a good standard length is four times the length of the seam. On larger sheaths I usually sew each side (when the stitching goes all the way around the blade) with a separate threads. One this allows the use of a shorter...

You're welcome Buddy and I reckon after studying the subject of Native American weapons/tools for 55+ years even I've learned a few things.:3: And Shaun's right similar shaped clubs have been used by indigenous peoples all over the world. Rabbit throwing sticks, even large non-returning...

try Flickr

Nicely done albeit much fancier than any of the originals in so far as metal work. FWIW despite the mythos surrounding the shape it is not based on gunstocks (and none were ever made from them) - the shape was known by the Natives well before the Europeans settling here. The image below is from...

looking good Mon!

Nice to see your work again Ray - It's been awhile.. and know what you mean about getting hit hard - been fighting the Big C now for a few years. Doing OK but the fatigue sets in and I tain't worth a crap for days - very frustrating and boring!

Best I've found for being in stock is Amazon - unfortunately all of the artisans who made videos for CC are having problems with management so I suggest that those wanting a set get one ASAP....not a sales pitch per se, but those interested in more info on my finishing techniques can find that...

Best I've found for being in stock is Amazon - unfortunately all of the artisans who made videos for CC are having problems with management so I suggest that those wanting a set get on ASAP....

George you've done yourself proud and I like your "twist". My whole impetus for making the videos was in the hopes to inspire as well as teach.............

Here's a basic pattern I worked up and built several of over the last 20+ years - http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_stitchpony.html The jaws should be tapered as shown on mine - this allows your hands to get close to your material. I line the jaws with leather - usually whatever...

That's how I've made mine for better than 40 years and the advantage is you only have to push the awl through one layer instead of three, making it easier to line up the holes properly. Just make sure after gluing up and sanding the edge even, to slightly re-adjust your stitch groover matches to...

A bunch of info here - it's basically a multi-step process using sealers to block off the areas already dyed to prevent over run and bleeding - to keep it straight a steady hand and LOTS of practice (the new blue paint tape may help without leaving marks - try it with scraps.)...

FYI - even leather sheaths will scratch a blade over time - the leather will pickup dust and other nasties over time and then you will get scratches. After building several thousand sheaths and holsters there is my experience simply no 100% effective way of preventing scratches from using a...

Tracy PM'd me and I'm off to my buddies for a while so will get back to you ASAP. In the meantime what leather are you using from Tandy? Can you post pics of the sheaths in question or ones similar?

If we're talking for leather work then I reckon I've been doing it wrong for the last 45+ years along with a whole slew of pros. While marble is softer IMO that can be an advantage since it can be resurfaced with a hand held belt grinder whereas granite cannot be especially when it chips due to...

The most common knife carried by a cowboy of the open range era which was from the late 1860's until the early 1890's was the pocket knife of the Barlow type or later 2 or 3 bladed stock man type. Belt knives were worm at times (mostly early period) and the most common would have been a...

bubba-san check out Diablo Silversmiths for real silver or silver overlay (heavier than plating but cheaper than solid silver) - http://www.diablosilver.com/

I use them all the time and what bubba-san said - if I use a screw back, I set the screw with Loctite and once dry I then carefully grind the head as flat as possible using a Dremel drum sanding head, then skive the edges of the patch and glue in place with contact cement. another really good...

Because to paraphrase the late Col Cooper - "it's a crappy solution to a non-existent problem" that is if you take the time to do it right in the first place. Edge Coat was originally developed for the shoe trade and to speed up the process for the big companies where speed is often more...