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Neat. My Radius Master came with jig slots on the stand - except it doesn't have one for the hollow grinding jig :( - I'm still working on a good solution for that one

Both are great knives but with different functions - what is your intended use?

As a user and not a maker I find that it is the sum total of all the parts working in harmony that is important. Focussing just on the steel used without taking everything else into consideration is not all that meaningful. A knife in D2 by DBK will be very different from a Bob D. but both use...

I would have thought this was pretty obvious. (1) What bevel(s) came with the knife? (2) What is the intended usage? (3) What is the steel capable of? If (1) ≠ (2) then a re-bevel is in order provided (3) will permit it I prefer to convex or micro-convex the edges on most of my knives...

Gotcha :bud: Will hunt up pics of your work Cheers Antonio

roll-eyes - not good - homo sapiens has a long history of men making knives and other tools - you need to set her straight - you're the one wearing the pants Bonding with son - fantastic 2thumbs

Thanks for link to a really neat and simple technique

I just don't get the hollow-grind unless it's on a razor. OK - it's good for shallow slicing but that rapidly increasing blade thickness makes it very inefficient for deep slicing vs flat grind. Plus it makes for a very weak edge. Not even convinced it's a good profile for a hunting/skinning...

http://news.smh.com.au/breaking-news-national/white-whale-migaloo-spotted-off-nsw-20090630-d2tg.html But if you go after this one..........

What also works is one of those $30 "toaster ovens" - these have the benefit of heating up real quick - plus you can watch the kydex thru the door glass

Well that's a very interesting concept - good to see you thinking outside the square. Really good looking sheath too

There are auto sub-forums in other sites - I thought this forum was maker focussed - how many here make auto's? BTW - auto's are banned in Oz so my personal interest in an auto forum would be kinda low - can't bear the frustration of seeing all the stuff I'm not allowed :mad:

I got a similar last year purporting to be from Western Union - even had a WU "sender" - I phoned them and was told categorically that they do not contact recepients by email. Scam!

Welcome to what can be a very frustrating experience. The problem with most "crap" knives is either the steel is too soft so it rolls and won't hold an edge, or if it's hard enough the temper/grain size is wrong and it'll chip. I've come to the conclusion that 600 grit is about all they're worth...

Came across the link to this in Knife Forums. I haven't had a play yet but Version 2 is supposed to be better than the superlative Version 1 http://zknives.com/knives/steels/steelchart.php

Genius - I like it when people think outside the square

Never used it but seems to be one of the proprietary Jap supersteels used by some makers - better than VG10 and possibly on a par with R2 and ZDP189 - and yes, very expensive. Bit more info here - suggest you save this link as it's full of really useful info...

If you like your knives to stay shiny then stick to stainless. That "discolouration" is a patina - not a problem. You want kitchen knives (wet area use) to develop this as it forms a protective coat to prevent rust. Phosphoric acid (rust converter) makes a better protective patina than food...

Best carbon steel for kitchen is highly debatable because blade geometry makes a huge difference but IMO the 10XX series are good for beaters eg KaBars/RAT but not as popular for kitchen use. The trend seems to be towards Jap style knives with thin blades and 62+RC and for this Hitachi blue...

Ah - retail therapy. Nice score. Don't give up on the Shoki just yet - those scales may grow on ya.