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I've always believed that good equipment will pay for itself (if the skills are developed and equipment properly used). I am in the process of selling off my current generation equipment and I am finding that my return on good quality used pieces have held their value over a few years. One piece...

Well, this is the first (and last) of the reeded/coin edge spacers I will try, a big thank you to John Doyle for the inspiration, and no thank you for more, I'd as soon poke flaming slivers of wood in my eyes. I wanted something on this "different", so thought I'd try "striping" the blades spine...

First try with this high carbon steel. More work to bring it to it's full potential, this is some incredible stuff to work with. Pre HT, easy-peasy, post HT, hand sanding don't cut it much.

I ran across a very well shaped piece of elk antler so I thought I would also use up a piece of sanbar I have while I am stinking up the shop. Using thin cyanoacrylate glue to penetrate, this stuff is like water and is great for turning projects and the cracks that develop while turning. You...

Finally completed the sheath for the small knife with antler scales.

This is the second knife I have made using the figured wild cherry I harvested on my property. 15n20, 7.5" OAL, buffed ricasso with opposing grind lines on the blade.

You just don't know how much I hate crowds (well, maybe as solitary knifemakers you do).

Wasn't sure which forum to place this in, so here it is if it needs moving, let me know. I want to add a separate, independent TC to my kiln to have a better idea of the temps inside. Here's the kiln and type K TC My question is this; would I be better off coming in from the top, near the front...

One in Sycamore, it will get a natural finish with tru oil. The other with African Blackwood w/red liners. Will post final of sycamore when all coats complete and dry. Both using 15n20.

I enjoy all of knifemaking, but right at this point in the process is where I get that first big smile. For me that's the moment I can really tell whether or not a particular knife is what I was hoping it would be. Much more work to go, but this moment speaks to me (you know-- that's a keeper...

I have been talking to someone I met a few weeks ago on a pretty regular basis. He is into knifemaking and we met up today and worked on a couple of small knives in my shop. We are going to make this a regular thing, meeting in each other's shop once a month to help each other along as we can...

I'm glad this is over. It was one of the most aggravating, nasty materials I have ever worked with, fighting me every step of the way. Now for the larger pieces of Sanbar Stag..., .

A beautiful Easter Sunday afternoon, wife and I hit the back roads with the scooter. Stopped alongside the road for this pic.

15n20 with DIW Scales and brass pins.

...did plunge lines as we know them today become a "thing", and why?

A couple more hours then done. 15n20, African blackwood with brown micarta bolsters and white liners. 8.5", 6.5", and 3.5" paring.

From what I have gleaned on different sites, dry ice will lose you up to about 1 point on the rhc scale. Any thoughts from those here with real world experience with LN and dry ice? I know LN is the cat's butt for cryo, but is it a necessity for aeb-l? Thanks,

Just saw his post on another site, that sucks.

I have seen threads of disc and belt grinders that are "convertable" in nature, can be run in either vertically or horizontally (shaft orientation). Are motors designs as either/or with others as bi-use, and how would you tell if you had a good candidate for a flip-over conversion? Thanks

Deleted, found what I needed.