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Here's a question - I use pumice all the time in woodworking, love it for finishing a finish, but is it hard enough to work on steel? How does it compare to grease-less compounds?

I was thinking that maybe some pictures would help. I had a customer who picked out a blank and some horn scales and asked me to put it together for him. The scales were a little short so I couldn't match the bevel angle on the scale to the choil and he really wanted those specific scales but...

I love custom wedges and thats a beauty. What do you use to hone the edge?

Sorry I came off that way, both to you and the OP. It wasn't my intention. I don't think its underhanded at all, if I did I wouldn't do it, LOL. I really just wanted to help the OP avoid some of the pitfalls I've seen others make, made a few myself and I guess a few more. Again I apologize...

This is what I do, actually you can make hand hammered rivet as smooth or as course as you like with small brass washers and pins that are very attractive. For textured handles I round the pins before mounting and use a small nail set to texture the pin or a larger one to smooth peen without...

First off you should understand, that if you use pre-ground blades you should be clear about it. There is a difference between buying a blank and those who put their blood and sweat into working steel. Nothing wrong with scaling blanks, I don't have the shop that allows me to make my own...

I use pure tung oil more often than linseed oil. It doesn't build as high a gloss as true oil can without wax but has greater water/alcohol resistance and doesn't darken the wood or darken with time nearly as much. I also make my own oil based finishes with natural resins for some applications...

I agree if you don't have a burr remaining your final bevel is too acute, fortunately that is a much quicker fix than if it was too obtuse.

I use gorilla glue as well but not yet on attaching scales to the tang. I use primarily as a heavy laminate adhesive, medium to large splice joins, or in heavy structural joints in furniture. The thing is it expands as it cures under pressure and once cured it is a bear to clean up. The...

Two part epoxy is used to best effect by prepping the materials to take advantage of a mechanical bond over a chemical bond. This would be especially true on non porous materials like metal. Wood will absorb epoxy so it bonds very well, metal must be rough to give it grip and clean to promote...

First you should know that traditional Japanese Knives are layered with a hard white or blue steel core with softer steel or even iron exteriors. This laminated effect is what gives these knifes the strength to be so thin while having a hardness at the edge that allows the steep chisel bevel...

Good deal! Here's the video I promised, its by Jamie Oliver. It illustrates the two methods I described plus a third called a tap chop. I didn't include it in my description as I rarely see it employed by home cooks, but its there and it is a useful skill when mastered. There is a language...

Happy to help! As far as balance goes, that sounds good but it hard to say in an educated way without holding the knife and judging the whole weight of the knife. Light knives have become pretty popular recently but I still like heavier knives when it comes to a western chef, that's all...

Very nice, that looks to have great function. And I think, from style point of view the lines look much cleaner, a little work on the buffer to clean it up and you'll have a great knife one would be proud to own.

looking forward to it.

Sticks- Exactly right. Diamond G - a lot of knives have that problem Here's a pic of a Thiers Issard Sabatier that does it right to illustrate. It's forged with a bolster but the principle is the same, I have a vintage model.

I like it, However I wouldn't advise any good knife go in the dishwasher regardless of the durability of the scales because of the likelihood of damage to the edge. Most custom knife buyers probably know that anyways. That being said a contemporary design, well made of low maintenance but...

These three products will get you where you want to go. I would mill the pieces into slightly larger than necessary size say 2"x6"x1.5" for burl Id start with Polycryl for straight grain Pentacryl after soaking that wood in those or similar dimensions should be good to go in around 6 months...

I know a lot of guys that restore/rescale straights and most use 1/16 bras rod and hand peen them over #0 brass or ss washers. Here's a link and the rod is available at many knikemaker supply shops. http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/175966-DIY-pins-and-peening

Not at all it's a perfectly reasoned position, I sometimes forget that I have a selection of planes so that I always have one ready for what I'm working and burl takes special care. I would like to add that good hand tools don't have to cost a fortune especially in the vintage market.