1st Antlered Handled WIP - with questions

[Eddie Mullins]

I thought I'd document my process here for my first hidden tang knife. This is more so for my benefit, but perhaps it may help another new maker. This knife is almost finished and ready to be delivered to my father as a Christmas present.

I started this project because he gave me a set of antlers from one of the few bucks he's killed when I mentioned to him I wanted to try using antlers for handles. I figure it only right, I return the favor and make the first knife for him. The blade material is new 5160.

I first starting sketching out some designs using a tracing of the actual antler section I choose for the handle so I could see the correct proportion. I opted for the 3rd design.


I next cut a piece of 5160 of a guestimated adequate size and forged to rough shape. I decided to cut out the tang for this one but hope to forge this in the future.



This is a first for me making bolster also, so I used what was on hand, 1/4" x 1" mild steel. The drill press and needle files came in handy here. Here's a shot of the 5160 I started with so you can seen the thickness reduction from forging as well as the rough ground blade and bolster.



I'm having trouble uploading pics, more to follow : ) .

 

[Eddie Mullins]

I attempted to grind free hand using only a mild steel guide as an aid for my plunge line. Currently using a HF 1x30 sander. I have made a "practice" knife or two with the sander, but this is also my first knife to finish on a sander, I started with files. I later removed the table as it just proved to be in the way.




Here is the knife after fitting together and shaping the bolster. The bolster is just a press fit. This took quite an extensive amount of time filing by hand so that this was a seamless fit. I foresee solder in my futuer : ) . I used the drill press and rotary tool to drill out the antler to accept the tang. The rotary cutting bit was just a little to short to finish the task, I need to find a better alternative.



I realized I didn't quite get the alignment I wanted, the spine sits higher than the top of the blade. I think this was due to the tang location. I also am not quite satisfied with the bolster, so I am going to do a little more grinding today. I also still need to drill and pin the blade.

My current dilemma is but cap or not, I think I am going to give it a go. I plant to is 1/8" material for this with a sort tang riveted through then pinned just as the blade was. I'll post more pics later.

I have also started on the sheath, just my second. I created my pattern by tracing 1/2 the blade, allotting some additional plus extra for the welt. Fold over and cut providing both sides, leaving length for the belt loop. First attempt wasn't right so adjusted and repeated. Then traced onto the leather and cut out. Next is gluing, stitching and dyeing.



I will post more pics later, but also have questions.

I have read what I can find on grinding bevels, and I know practice will provide improvement, but do want some feedback. I forge to shape partly before grinding. Most of the info I find seems to be geared toward starting with flat stock. I already have compound tapers from the spine to edge and tang/handle to tip. It seems some technique adjustment is needed.

One area in particular that I struggled with on the knife was the tip. I ground away more than needed when keeping the full length of the blade in contact with the belt at the same angle. I had to reduce my angle of contact as I move from the ricasso to the tip to maintain an even bevel and not loose material at the tip. Is this the correct approach for a forged blade that is already tapered?

My preference is to freehand grind, but am willing to use a jig, even if just as a learning aid for a while. I am considering a Bubble Jig, but open to suggestions ere.

 

[Eddie Mullins]

I have finished up.

I did add a but cap. I don't recall seeing info on how to do this, so I improvised. I use 1/4" x 1" mild steel. I made a tang of sorts using 1/8" x 1/2" by creating a mortise and tennon joint I peened together.





I used the rotary tool to route out the butt and epoxied the plate in place, same as the blade, after I did most of the shaping. Would love to know the "proper" way to do this, but this seems to have worked well.

Did some final sanding to the butt plate, as well as the reshaped the bolster somewhat, and called it done. Next was completing the sheath and little final sharpening.



I did run into another snag. I don't know that I really needed to do it, but felt I should also drill and pin the blade in addition to the epoxy. I broke two drill bits and never drill through. Left with a hole in the handle I decided to put a pin in the hole just for cosmetics. So now I have a pin one side and not the other : (.



I thought I was careful not to harden the tang of the blade. I guess I should have done a dry fit and drilled after annealing. What's the normal sequence for hidden tang assembly?

 

[Freds Edge]

Here is a knife I did with a Whitetail antler , you can see the butt cap , it's a piece of 1/8 x 1 1/4 that I fit and soldered a brass pin in then epoxied in place .
Fred

 

[TacticallySharp]

Here's my first one. I soldered a thread brass rod to the thin plate then attached my butt plate with epoxy.

I forge to about 90% and then grind to clean up my blade. I have had greater success since I went to a 2x72 grinder.
I would add another false pin to balance the look of the handle. I do my rough fitting and drilling while the blade is anealed.

Remember you had a lot of firsts on this one. Looks pretty good for the amount of firsts involved.



This was aslo a knife with a ton of firsts. One which was hidden pins in the Axis handle for added gripping surfaces for the epoxy. Carved channels for pins inside the handle slot. The person who received it thinks it's one of the greatest knives he owns because I made it for him. He has at least 30 custom knives he has purchased over the years, that I know are far nicer than this one. He watched the challenges I faced creating this one. When he received it he was completely surprised it was for him.

Oh, he carries it daily on the ranch.

 

[Eddie Mullins]

Here is a knife I did with a Whitetail antler , you can see the butt cap , it's a piece of 1/8 x 1 1/4 that I fit and soldered a brass pin in then epoxied in place .
FredView attachment 44981

Brass and soldering will be yet another first for me to tackle. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Eddie Mullins]

Here's my first one. I soldered a thread brass rod to the thin plate then attached my butt plate with epoxy.

I forge to about 90% and then grind to clean up my blade. I have had greater success since I went to a 2x72 grinder.
I would add another false pin to balance the look of the handle. I do my rough fitting and drilling while the blade is anealed.

Remember you had a lot of firsts on this one. Looks pretty good for the amount of firsts involved.

View attachment 44992

This was aslo a knife with a ton of firsts. One which was hidden pins in the Axis handle for added gripping surfaces for the epoxy. Carved channels for pins inside the handle slot. The person who received it thinks it's one of the greatest knives he owns because I made it for him. He has at least 30 custom knives he has purchased over the years, that I know are far nicer than this one. He watched the challenges I faced creating this one. When he received it he was completely surprised it was for him.

Oh, he carries it daily on the ranch.

I think the narrow belt is definitely a challenge. I would love to buy or build a 2 x 72 but not in the cards right now. I am debating on the craftsman 2 x 42.

Even with its flaws my dad's reaction when he got it was priceless so I can relate to your story.

BTW I love the looks of your knife and have a few rasps for still another first attempt. I seem to have a trend goin LOL.