80 crv2
- Thread starter blksmith
- Start date
taylormadeknives
Well-Known Member
No. There are much better steels for this. I would recommend Aldo's steel for a hamon. W2 tool steel, 1095 and 1075 will all produce a hamon if done correctly.
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
J. Doyle
Dealer - Purveyor
You can get a hardening line, meaning it is possible to differentially harden this steel. I used to do it some. But you won't get the drastic activity and fine cloud like aspects of steels like w2 and 1075. I have seen some interesting 'cracked ice' looking activity in the transition line many times when I differentially hardened this steel in the past.
80CrV2 is a deep hardening steel and I stopped trying to create hamon or even edge quenching it when I realized that in doing so, I was intentionally fighting elements that had been added to the steel to prevent exactly what I was trying to force. I love the steel but by full quenching and hardening this steel, I think my 80CrV2 blades achieved better performance and more desirable aspects, for me, than the differentially hardened blades of this same steel.
I save hamon for steels like w2, 1075 and 1095.
80CrV2 is a deep hardening steel and I stopped trying to create hamon or even edge quenching it when I realized that in doing so, I was intentionally fighting elements that had been added to the steel to prevent exactly what I was trying to force. I love the steel but by full quenching and hardening this steel, I think my 80CrV2 blades achieved better performance and more desirable aspects, for me, than the differentially hardened blades of this same steel.
I save hamon for steels like w2, 1075 and 1095.
J. Doyle
Dealer - Purveyor
For what it's worth, I think 80CrV2 steel is quite a bit superior to 5160 in almost all regards. Not that 5160 isn't a good steel. But I think 80CrV2 wins in toughness and edge holding. It's been called 1080+ in the past, but looking at the chemical makeup, it doesn't really heat treat the same as 1080, or rather, if you do heat treat it like 1080, you might be leaving something on the table as far as performance. I'd compare it more to 5160 with a lot more carbon and a bit of vanadium added.
It is an incredibly tough, incredibly fine grained steel that has excellent edge retention and capable of excellent edge stability even at high hardness and with really thin grinds.
Can you share you heat treatment for 80crV2? And what kind of hardness your getting if it's ok. Thanks Davey
Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk
taylormadeknives
Well-Known Member
It is a great choice for many knives. If your set up to heat treat it correctly. My personal edc knife is made from 80CrV2 and it really does hold the edge and take an edge. I have been impressed with this steel. I haven't tested the toughness by means of chopping, but I suspect it would do nicely if heat treated correctly. It will support a very thin edge like John said. My personal edc blade has a very thin hollow grind and it cuts like a laser.
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
J. Doyle
Dealer - Purveyor
Their are a few variables and you will, of course, have to see what works best for you in your shop with your equipment.
Austenitizing temps in the range of 1475-1525 F. would be a good place to start. I tend to lean toward the higher end of that range for this steel. Tempering temps of 375-425 F. should make really serviceable blades, though I don't go as high as 425 F. on this steel even in bigger knives. Edge geometry will play an important role in that. when tempering, I use the lower temps for smaller blades and thin slicers and something more around 400 F. for bigger knives. I've played around with temps around 350 F. and done pretty well, even on bigger knives.