A little more help please

A little more help needed guys. I am going to be making a drop point hunter out of 1084 1.25x0.125. I will be filing the entire thing including the bevles. Now tell me if I am over thinking things; staying in the machinist mind set too much. To keep my bevel right I would need to file 0.03125 on either side for my initial grind leaving 0.0625 on the edge for heat threat. I want to take my grind back 1" so that will make my angle approximately 1.8°. After heat treat I will have 0.0625 to cut a 10° edge on either side for my sharpening. The first question is the 0.0625 enough meat for the heat treat to keep from cracking? The second question is, is that angle too shallow? Is this doable?
 
.0625 is fairly thick for heat treating, and far to thick for sharpening. If you're not planing on grinding the edge down after heat treat you can go as thin as .020 but risk some warping. The good news is dealing with warps is part of knife making and unless the blade looks like a Pringles chip can easily be fixed.
 
.0625 is fairly thick for heat treating, and far to thick for sharpening. If you're not planing on grinding the edge down after heat treat you can go as thin as .020 but risk some warping. The good news is dealing with warps is part of knife making and unless the blade looks like a Pringles chip can easily be fixed.

Will normalizing help prevent warps?
 
.0625 is fairly thick for heat treating, and far to thick for sharpening. If you're not planing on grinding the edge down after heat treat you can go as thin as .020 but risk some warping. The good news is dealing with warps is part of knife making and unless the blade looks like a Pringles chip can easily be fixed.

I was going to cut my second bevel in with a file then sharpen.
 
Will normalizing help prevent warps?
There much more knowledgeable people on here that can answer that question better then I can. I have tried to figure out how to prevent warps, and the one thing that has become apparent to me with carbon steels is they are going to happen. Even bevel, and even cooling rate seem to be the best answer for preventing warps. .030 is plenty thick for heat treating.

By second bevel do you mean, thinning the edge and maintaining your primary bevel at 1 inch up?
 
There much more knowledgeable people on here that can answer that question better then I can. I have tried to figure out how to prevent warps, and the one thing that has become apparent to me with carbon steels is they are going to happen. Even bevel, and even cooling rate seem to be the best answer for preventing warps. .030 is plenty thick for heat treating.

By second bevel do you mean, thinning the edge and maintaining your primary bevel at 1 inch up?

By second bevel I mean there will be a primary bevel going 1" up th blade with just the edge having a bit steeper angle for sharpening so I dont have to maintain the entire bevel during subsequent sharpenings after use. Just the edge.like the flat grind in this photo
https://goo.gl/images/cnPuro
 
There much more knowledgeable people on here that can answer that question better then I can. I have tried to figure out how to prevent warps, and the one thing that has become apparent to me with carbon steels is they are going to happen. Even bevel, and even cooling rate seem to be the best answer for preventing warps. .030 is plenty thick for heat treating.

By second bevel do you mean, thinning the edge and maintaining your primary bevel at 1 inch up?

I know my terminology is most likely wrong.
 
A little more help needed guys. I am going to be making a drop point hunter out of 1084 1.25x0.125. I will be filing the entire thing including the bevles. Now tell me if I am over thinking things; staying in the machinist mind set too much. To keep my bevel right I would need to file 0.03125 on either side for my initial grind leaving 0.0625 on the edge for heat threat. I want to take my grind back 1" so that will make my angle approximately 1.8°. After heat treat I will have 0.0625 to cut a 10° edge on either side for my sharpening. The first question is the 0.0625 enough meat for the heat treat to keep from cracking? The second question is, is that angle too shallow? Is this doable?

Yes....you are over thinking things. ;) throwing out numbers like .03125"......from both sides......with a file........is gonna make you give up before you even start.

Being a machinist can be a huge asset to you while making knives. But being a good knifemaker means knowing when to shut the machinist off. Save the precision measurements for fit and finish.

You're about to start making knives, truly by hand, with files. No easy task but it certainly can be done.

Scribe two lines on your blade edge and spine that leave a strip about .030" wide right in the center. File down to your lines and take your primary bevels up as high as you can. Keep both sides as flat and as even as possible.

The biggest issue I see with files is leaving the blade (mostly the edge) thick enough to survive heat treating without cracking or too much warping, but then being able to thin hardened steel down thin enough to be a good slicer with files.

.060" is way too thick for a primary bevel termination. Even with a secondary bevel, unless it was huge, it will have the cutting geometry of a splitting maul.

If I had to make a knife with files only, I'd shoot for .015"- .020" max on the edge and hope for the best in heat treating.

Even grinds, even heating, good thermal cycling/stress relief, NOT over-heating, avoiding side to side swirling or stirring motions in quenching, and even cooling are the key things to consider when trying to minimize warp. Even then, it still happens.
 
I have made a few knives with files and a guide early on but I did not really start to enjoy it until I dropped $40 on a HF 1x30 belt sander. Obviously not the best knife making machine but if you take your time it will do the job much easier than files. If you stick with files you may consider making a few knives out of 3/32 stock. It will make a great skinning knife and it will take less effort to get to a good geometry. I actually still use that 1x30 for a few tasks in my shop and the general skills you develop while grinding on it will carry over when you upgrade to that KMG you more than likely have already checked out.
 
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I have made a few knives with files and a guide early on but I did not really start to enjoy it until I dropped $40 on a HF 1x30 belt sander. Obviously not the best knife making machine but if you take your time it will do the job much easier than files. If you stick with files you may consider making a few knives out of 3/32 stock. It will make a great skinning knife and it will take less effort to get to a good geometry. I actually still use that 1x30 for a few tasks in my shop and the general skills you develop while grinding on it will carry over when you upgrade to that KMG you more than likely have already checked out.

I did view some 1x30 belt with built in 5" Sanders on amazon. As this is my first knife and I am still waiting on my materia, I wanted to make sure I would enjoy this before I dropped too much money but the 40 to 60 bucks seems like one of those no harm no foul situations. Thanks for the advise guys.
 
Yes....you are over thinking things. ;) throwing out numbers like .03125"......from both sides......with a file........is gonna make you give up before you even start.

Being a machinist can be a huge asset to you while making knives. But being a good knifemaker means knowing when to shut the machinist off. Save the precision measurements for fit and finish.

You're about to start making knives, truly by hand, with files. No easy task but it certainly can be done.

Scribe two lines on your blade edge and spine that leave a strip about .030" wide right in the center. File down to your lines and take your primary bevels up as high as you can. Keep both sides as flat and as even as possible.

The biggest issue I see with files is leaving the blade (mostly the edge) thick enough to survive heat treating without cracking or too much warping, but then being able to thin hardened steel down thin enough to be a good slicer with files.

.060" is way too thick for a primary bevel termination. Even with a secondary bevel, unless it was huge, it will have the cutting geometry of a splitting maul.

If I had to make a knife with files only, I'd shoot for .015"- .020" max on the edge and hope for the best in heat treating.

Even grinds, even heating, good thermal cycling/stress relief, NOT over-heating, avoiding side to side swirling or stirring motions in quenching, and even cooling are the key things to consider when trying to minimize warp. Even then, it still happens.

Thank you. That was very helpful.
 
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