Bolster help

[Kev]

I’ve been practicing attaching bolsters to scrap of blade steel, and I’m getting pretty good and consistent results. I’m to the point where I feel like I can attach them to a blade and end up with a presentable product.
My question is this. What if anything is everyone using to attach the bolsters to the scale besides the peening of the pins? I’ve seen epoxy used, solder, nothing... I’m just curious what those with experience have used with the best results.
Thank you

 

[J. Doyle]

If I was peening metal bolsters to a steel tang I'd use pins only and no glue or epoxy.

I'd have both the tang and back of bolsters sanded to 400 or 600 grit.

 

[mike miller]

I like to taper the holes in bolster material. As you expand the pin it pushes it closer to the blade material. I use a small ball peen hammer with a polished ball to expand it faster. When it have it expanded, I switch to a bigger hammer and drive that pin material down. To start the [process, I leave at least the size of pin extra material sticking up to expand.

 

[Dennis Morland]

On bolsters I have attached them using just pins and tapered holes. If done correctly, you get a very good/solid holding joint. Odds are they never come apart.

I have attached them using epoxy. In a way I prefer using epoxy. It is my hope/belief that the epoxy should aid in keeping water/moisture from entering under the bolster. If you choose to use epoxy, you may also want to dimple the back of the bolster to hold some epoxy. If you use two flat surfaces, very little epoxy will stay between the bolster and the tang. It all squeezes out when you beat the crap out of the pins...

 

[Kev]

I suppose I should have expanded my question to include guards as well, but its a moot point as I think they both attach the same

I have spent a fair amount of time making certain that both surfaces are actually flat, on the assumption that that fact alone may help to exclude any water and/or moisture from being trapped under the surface and causing problems. But that is my major concern. As far as cosmetics when using epoxy, is there a definite line left showing from the epoxy? Or is the majority squeezed out and not really an issue?

I have made up some tapered reamers on the tool grinder at work for this specific purpose, they work well in soft materials, but not so much on the harder things, so I will be purchasing a few for that.

For the most part I subscribed to the methods called out above, with the caveat, I wailed on the bolster in a beginning attempt and it deformed the rear to the point it was no longer flat or straight, I try to avoid that.

Thank you for the help.

 

[Rick Otts]

I suppose I should have expanded my question to include guards as well, but its a moot point as I think they both attach the same

I have spent a fair amount of time making certain that both surfaces are actually flat, on the assumption that that fact alone may help to exclude any water and/or moisture from being trapped under the surface and causing problems. But that is my major concern. As far as cosmetics when using epoxy, is there a definite line left showing from the epoxy? Or is the majority squeezed out and not really an issue?

I have made up some tapered reamers on the tool grinder at work for this specific purpose, they work well in soft materials, but not so much on the harder things, so I will be purchasing a few for that.

For the most part I subscribed to the methods called out above, with the caveat, I wailed on the bolster in a beginning attempt and it deformed the rear to the point it was no longer flat or straight, I try to avoid that.

Thank you for the help.

Ed is got a video on guards check it out!