Bowie in Koa

Alden Cole

Alden Cole

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, I just finished up this bowie and wanted to show it off! I know it is not perfect, and I would really like to get some critique. Also, if anyone can give their opinion on how much they think this knife is worth I would appreciate it. I tried a J. Doyle thing on the back, and that needs some practice! The steel is 1075, brass dovetailed bolsters, full tapered tang, six ss pins, and a koa handle. Thank you!
knife 10.JPGknife11.JPGknife 12.JPG
 
How many Bowies have you made? It looks like you also did a hamon?
As far as value, for me it's tough to put a price on someone else's work. What are similar knives selling for in your area? Have you sold any other knives that you have made? Depending on the construction and complexity that should establish a base line.
As far a critique - I see a few things but since my knives always have issues, I'm not really based enough myself to hand out advise.
 
Thanks guys. I've sold about 5 knives for around $100 each to friends and family, albeit all of them were small edc/hunters. This is knife #39 I give most of them away. This is my 2nd or 3rd bowie, depending on how you classify them. OPaul, speak your mind, I figure that my skin needs toughened up every once in a while!
Edited to add: yes there is a slight hamon in there.
 
Ember Knives said:
OPaul, speak your mind, I figure that my skin needs toughened up every once in a while!
Edited to add: yes there is a slight hamon in there.
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Ok, I'll take you at your word :). This is just my opinion and how the visual comes across. Photographs do make a difference so I'm going with what I see. But before I go on - I post knives here and I am always open to feedback! So take a look at some of my work and let me know if you see anything that jumps out at you. Sometimes I over look the obvious.
To me, the ricasso looks to large in length and it might be the photo but the shape doesn't appear to be uniform in the arc. The blade shape is awesome and with the subtle recurve it should be a slicer. I think the forward end could be a little more aggressive and give it a really classic bowie point. The fit and finish on the guard looks great, but the width (length) seems a little excessive. Rather than a curve on the ricasso it might flow better if the transition of the bottom of the ricasso and the tang make one continuous flow and smoother line.
(feedback from J. Doyle on one of my knives). Flattening out the swell on the handle would also help.


Keep in mind these are just my observations on how I perceive things. Other makers may think differently.
Its a good looking knife and it's obvious you put a lot of thought and work into the fit and finish.
 
Question from a newbie, how did you attach the brass bolster? I just bought a 2" x 1/2" brass flat bar to make a bolster for a Bowie knife and I was going to try to pin it. But I see you didn't pin? I would appreciate your input.
 
Thank you Opaul I will definitely use that info. It is very helpful to have another persons eyes.
Alsea, it depends on whether you are making bolsters for a full tang (like here) or a hidden tang guard. The bolsters do have pins in them, they are just invisible! :) To do this on a full tang I will not ream or countersink, just let the pins swell out when peened. I learned to do this from dennis Moreland. I use 1in by 1/4in brass.
 
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I like the the overall lines and materials used. Good color combinations. The blade shape I like very much. It *maybe* could use a little less belly, but with the recurve it still works.

A more modern bowie/fighter might have less belly and a leaner, sharper point. As it sits, this falls nicely into what many might call a camp knife/chopper. But I digress.....semantics.

The ricasso is a tad long to my eye and I would also agree that the arc/curve in the bottom edge of the ricasso is a little rough. And it also visually detracts a bit from overall flow, not seamlessly flowing into the curve behind the finger guard.

Now....about the bolster.....I don't have any issue with the length of the bolster. I typically like longer bolsters, much better than shorter ones.

My issue with the bolster is how the dovetail angle works against the drastic radical curves of your handle edges. This is just personal preference now. I like that you really curved and shaped the handle edges. But when you do that combined with a steep dovetail, you get that really pronounced curve in the joint that actually looks like it undercuts and points back at the blade.....I hope that makes sense.

Its something I used to do all the time but I really started to dislike that turn back curve at the bolster joint. It just looks off to me. So in a lot of cases, I stopped dovetailing my bolsters.

I would like to see the swedge grind a little crisper and more defined. How did you grind the swedge in and at what point in the process was it done?
 
Thanks Ember, I am working a full tang Bowie knife (I think) as my second knife blade. This will be my first peening of a bolster and handle and will look forward to critique when completed. It is quite large (14" blade), not planned, I just took a piece of leaf spring and went for it. The bolster will be ~1.5" wide. On another note, I had much trouble trying to grind the bevel down when moving to higher grit belts and essentially lost the flat bevel using the 2 x 72. As such, I used a hand file to flatten and straighten the bevel again and it looks OK, but now I need to fine grind again, but am worried about the same result. I'll post a picture in a new post.
 
Mr. Doyle, thank you for the critique! I will definitely clean up the ricasso next time, as I realize I didn't plan enough ahead to make it right. I have a problem with finishing the front of the bolster and then having to refinish it once it is mounted on the blade. It never matches up just right, so I have to grind down flush. That is one of the reasons that the ricasso's curve isn't right. I treated the swedge just like I would a normal bevel. I ground pre-ht free hand, and finish ground after ht freehand. I personally like dovetailed bolsters, but I can see what you mean!
Alsea: Grinding is tough! It takes a lot of practice to get grinds right, try different types of belts, they can help a lot. Post up pics when you finish the bowie!
 
J. Doyle said:
You might try grinding your swedge after heat treat.

Personally, I rough grind, then heat treat. Then finish grind, hand sand to 90% finish THEN grind my swedges/clips. That makes it a lot easier to keep them crisp and defined and not washed out.

Just a thought.
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After a lot of fumbling on the Bowie that I did for last years KITH that's how I did my swedge. It really made a difference.
 
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