coote grinder
- Thread starter Redbaird
- Start date
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
Current new price is listed as $540.00, and being a Coote, which is a brand that tends to hold it's value fairly well. IF all is good as far as bearings good. straight shafts, etc. $400.00 or less would be a good deal. Now, that being said, think about the additional cost of a motor, belt, wiring, etc. And then think about maybe saving that money, along with some more here and there.....and buying one of the "top shelf" 2 x 72 machines. I know, I know.....that's a bunch of money....... BUT, you said "I am looking to upgrade"..... I've seen the pattern countless times.....buy/replace the first grinder, then spend more on another, and another, and then, by the time a person breaks down and buys a "top shelf" 2 x 72.....they've spent enough money to have purchased 2-3 of top shelf machines...... just some food for thought. 
Redbaird
Well-Known Member
It is practically brand new and I can get it for $275. I think I am going to pull the trigger.Current new price is listed as $540.00, and being a Coote, which is a brand that tends to hold it's value fairly well. IF all is good as far as bearings good. straight shafts, etc. $400.00 or less would be a good deal. Now, that being said, think about the additional cost of a motor, belt, wiring, etc. And then think about maybe saving that money, along with some more here and there.....and buying one of the "top shelf" 2 x 72 machines. I know, I know.....that's a bunch of money....... BUT, you said "I am looking to upgrade"..... I've seen the pattern countless times.....buy/replace the first grinder, then spend more on another, and another, and then, by the time a person breaks down and buys a "top shelf" 2 x 72.....they've spent enough money to have purchased 2-3 of top shelf machines...... just some food for thought.
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
WOW! I think I would even do that to just have another grinder around the shops! .....screamin deal!
Randy Lucius
Well-Known Member
If you don't, let me know and I will.
That's a great price. Do it !!
C. Killgore
Well-Known Member
Nice,
That is a great deal. I have a coote that I got to set up as a dedicated slack belt grinder. Before I pulled the platen off, I did some flat grinding on it and it was a real smooth grind.
Nice find. If it is the 10”, the contact wheel has to free hang over the edge of something as there’s not enough clearance between what it’s sitting on and the bottom of the contact wheel for the belt to run. Just thought I’d get the juices flowing on the setup. I’ve got mine hooked up with step pulleys and a 1hp motor. The 1hp motor is what Norm recommends. A vfd is great if you can afford it. I have 3 other grinders with kbac units on them. But I am definitely not as opposed to step pulleys as some. They are pretty quick to change and I don’t usually use more than about 3 general speed ranges. And there’s no electronics to die on you.
That is a great deal. I have a coote that I got to set up as a dedicated slack belt grinder. Before I pulled the platen off, I did some flat grinding on it and it was a real smooth grind.
Nice find. If it is the 10”, the contact wheel has to free hang over the edge of something as there’s not enough clearance between what it’s sitting on and the bottom of the contact wheel for the belt to run. Just thought I’d get the juices flowing on the setup. I’ve got mine hooked up with step pulleys and a 1hp motor. The 1hp motor is what Norm recommends. A vfd is great if you can afford it. I have 3 other grinders with kbac units on them. But I am definitely not as opposed to step pulleys as some. They are pretty quick to change and I don’t usually use more than about 3 general speed ranges. And there’s no electronics to die on you.
Redbaird
Well-Known Member
Yeah... I have 2 months experience making knives now so I will need some help setting this thing up. When I said "upgrade from from current grinder" I am using a Dayton 2 x 42 grinder that will probably make it another month or so before I burn it up. I have to be sure knife making is for me before sinking too much money into it but if I can get into a decent 2 x 72 for $6-700 I can't pass that up. And if after a year I decide not to stick with it (not gonna happen) I can recoup a lot of my money and buy another guitar.
Redbaird
Well-Known Member
I picked up the coote. After talking to the guy, he watched FIF a couple of times and bought this not knowing it needed set up. A few years later, I bought it from him and it's never had a motor attached. And I talked him down to $200 ( I kinda feel guilty about that.) I hope to get it up and running this weekend.
![IMG_1155[1].JPG](https://knifedogs.com/data/attachments/50/50748-a72a45234a77d0bb2d08104fde33ebe8.jpg "IMG_1155[1].JPG")
Redbaird
Well-Known Member
After further review, the grinder has been slightly used. I set it up in my little shop/trailer this weekend and attached a cheap motor to it until I decide how I want to run it permanently. I would have run it this weekend but try as I might, I couldn't get one of my 42" belts to stretch over it. I have some 72s on order arriving tomorrow. The motor attached now is 2 HP and runs 3400 RPM. I put a 2" drive pulley on it and the grinder has a 4" pulley on it. This should get me down to 1700 RPM on my 10" contact wheel. If anyone with more experience with these grinders sees anything going horribly wrong with this set-up please let me know. My wife and kids are counting on you!!
![IMG_1164[1].JPG](https://knifedogs.com/data/attachments/50/50788-e05ef603cc55b03cdeb53d973ae37772.jpg "IMG_1164[1].JPG")
C. Killgore
Well-Known Member
Are you planning to change speeds with 1 step pulley and 1 fixed size pulley. If so, I’m not sure how well that would work since as you move down to the smaller rings, there will be less tension on the v-belt.
Single speed is doable but it’s really nice to be able to change speeds.
Like I mentioned earlier, there’s really not enough room between the contact wheel and your work bench for a belt to fit between them. The maker suggests moving the grinder to the edge of the workbench and allowing the contact wheel to free-hang. You might could run it as is and just cut a groove into your workbench but it’s still going to be more of a pain to change belts.
Single speed is doable but it’s really nice to be able to change speeds.
Like I mentioned earlier, there’s really not enough room between the contact wheel and your work bench for a belt to fit between them. The maker suggests moving the grinder to the edge of the workbench and allowing the contact wheel to free-hang. You might could run it as is and just cut a groove into your workbench but it’s still going to be more of a pain to change belts.
C. Killgore
Well-Known Member
Dug up this picture of mine when I set it up. Not saying it’s a great design but you can see the contact wheel is free hanging.
Redbaird
Well-Known Member
Right now I am going single speed until I figure out how to do variable speed on a 110V supply. I have an Electrical Engineer who works for me figuring out the best option. And as for the wheel being close to the work surface, I am going to cut a shallow notch for now and see how it works.
C. Killgore
Well-Known Member
Cool. Sounds good.
Doug Lester
Well-Known Member
I use basically that setup on the pulleys. Remember, if you have the right combination, as you move the belt down to the next smaller pulley you also move the belt up to the next size to keep the same tension. Is that shackle you have rigged on the bottom of the grinder table so that you can relax the tension to move your drive belt? It should save you some wear and tear.
Doug
Doug
Redbaird
Well-Known Member
When I bolted mine down, I have 1/8" between the table and the belt. It is working so far. I am going to use it single speed for now and upgrade to a 220 variable speed motor in a few months. Compared to the 2 X 42 this is like heaven!