Etch-O-Matic Stencil Making

W

will man

Member
Hello All,

I just started trying to use an Etch-O-Matic I bought a few years ago and I'm having issues making the stencils. They seem to look good after exposure but when put in the developer, the pattern I want to etch dosen't go completely through the stencil. I'm assuming this is what is supposed to happen so that a have a complete path for current. I've got a stencil in developer now that I plan to leave overnight just to see if it will go through.
And I thought knifemaking was tough!!
Bryan
 
If I remember right there is a film on the stencil that has to be peeled off. Did you remember to do that?

Larry
 
I have been making my own etch-o-matic stencils for about 3 years now and it's still a frustrating hit-or-miss process. I found that the exposure time is critical but it's a guessing game to get the right exposue. The exposure time varies depending on the size of the font or how intricate the mark is. Usually it's 1 1/2 - 3 minutes but it seems like 30 seconds either way can make a big difference.

I have made some good stencils but I have also thrown away a lot failed attempts. I've had some that looked like it was a good stencil but wouldn't make a mark.

I have also ordered stencils from Marking Methods and I do think their stencils are better than anything I have made.

The Etch-O-Matics are good for one-of stencils for a special marking on a custom knife that doesn't justify the set up fee and cost of having one made professionally.
 
LR Adkins said:
If I remember right there is a film on the stencil that has to be peeled off. Did you remember to do that?

Larry
Click to expand...

Yes, there is a thin film of plastic on BOTH sides of the stencil that has to be removed before it goes into the developer. It's very hard to peel it off especially in a dark room.
 
I did remember to take the film off ... the second time! What to you look for in a correctly exposed stencil? Or is this something you don't know until it's developed? I was expecting the area that I want to etch to be completely cut thru the stencil, allowing electrical contact with the item to be etched but this is not occurring. The developer removes some of it but it does not appear to go completely through. I"ll do some more work on this tomorrow and see if I can figure to out before running out of stencil material. Thanks for the input Guys!
 
The mark should be white on an Etch-O-Matic stencil. You will see the white fiber material where the developer removed the blue film.
 
I see the white stuff, I thought is was some type of plastic because I couldn't etch thru it and it had to be completely removed. I didn't think it might be fiberious which would allow the electrolyte to do it's job. I'll give it a try tomorrow. Thanks!
 
The white stuff is like a fiberous screen that they put the photoreactive chemical on. Once the chemical is exposed to uv light, it hardens except for the area you have blocked out with your logo. You will have to play around with exposure time to get it to work correctly, it all depends on what you are using for a light source as to the length of time necessary. My stencils typically take about 1.5 minutes using a 500 watt work light about 2.5 feet away from the stencil. Make sure you are using safe light (an orange bug light works) from the time you shut off the exposure light until you have tested the etch. If you have any other light hit the stencil it will cause the chemical to harden inside your logo area and will make it hard or impossible to get it out of the screen material.

If you can see your logo in the stencil material right after exposure, you are probably close on exposure time. I think your main problem is not washing the stencil out good enough after being developed. The soft unexposed chemical wont just fall off in the developer, you have to give it a good spray with water to get it out of the screen.

I always test my stencils on scrap after making them and if the whole image doesn't come out, just stick it in the developer for a few seconds to get it saturated again and very lightly rub it between your thumb and fore finger for a few second to stir up the softened chemical. Then spray it out with water again and restest. As has already been stated, when your stencil is complete, the screen area where your logo is should look pure white.

Brad
www.andersonknives.ca
 
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I didn't realize the white area was pourous, I was trying to remove it completely! This make more sense now. Thanks!
 
Mike was correct about this being a frustrating hit or miss operation! I got the stencil to work after a good scrubbing but still not getting the etch I would like. Good thing I bought extra stencil material... I'm going to need it!
Thanks for all the help Guys!
Bryan
 
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