even dye application

Bailey Knives

Bailey Knives

Well-Known Member
I guess the title really says it. I have been using fiebings alcohol based leather dyes. I tried the eco-flo, but the dye did not seem to want to stick, which is too bad, because in a fit of dumbness, I bought several small bottles. I have been using the little wool daubers, but they dye still is applied in streaks. It seems to even out a bit after the application of the sheen (eco flo brand).

I guess my questions are thus...
Does any one have any tricks for eco-flo? I have those bottles I dont really want to toss in the trash.

How do you apply the alcohol based dyes evenly?

Exactly what types of dyes and finishes are most recommended, and does tandy sell them (I have a wholsale account with them)

Thanks in advance.

Matt
 
Hi Matt
Sorry about your experience with the Eco Flo stuff, I've heard a few stories that its just not working well. One suggestion I found was to lightly wet the leather beforehand, not sopping just damp and try it that way. But no matter what I've tried and read it is difficult stuff to work with. Also, with those dyes its very important to deglaze and clean your leather very well before you apply the dye.

I had heard that some people will wet the leather very deeply before applying alcohol dyes, supposedly that causes the dye to soak into the leather slower and gives it enough time to evenly penetrate. The bad part of alcohol dyes is how fast they soak into leather, its alarming. And its especially frustrating with the lighter colors like saddle tan. The water method works well from what I have seen.

I tend to use pro oil dye where I can, it penetrates slower and gives a more even color when it finally dries, and it tends to stay in the leather and not rub off as easily. One setback of it is it takes hours to dry.
 
Another tip is to be sure you're applying the dye in fluid circular strokes.

Note that a freshly charged wool dauber will drop most of its dye as soon as it hits the leather and it is going to saturate that one spot. Your job is to blend that dye as fluidly as possible and blend that drop zone into the surrounding area.
 
I use Fiebings dye regular, not oil based. I spray the leather with water until it is evenly wet, then I use a terry cloth rag, fold it into a big square, soak up a bunch of dye and then rub the rag over the leather in big swatches. It's the only way I've found to not get stripes. I tend to dye a full 1/2 shoulder (front at back) at a time so I can just cut what I need down the road. When I am making a sheath, I wet mold it and then follow up with Antique dye to add or tone down any highlights and darken the cuts or punch holes. Some where else in that process, I will add a few tone swipes/highlights with another color, lighter or darker, depending on which best matches the handle of the knife I am sheathing.
 
Thanks, guys...

I will try the suggestions. I havent attempted it on dampened leather, I will have to take a crack at that one first.
 
I am no sheath expert, I hate making sheaths. A Tandy Leather employee told me to try an air brush to apply my dye, and it works very well for me. My air brush is a Testors brand made for model car building, and uses a canned propelent, bought at wally world a few years back. Hope this can be of help.
 
I tried the eco flow today and it is very difficult to use. I had to redo the sheath with the thin stuff because of the uneveness.
Im done with eco flow.
 
Your not alone in having problems with Eco-flow, lots do.Like Dwayne I use Fiebing's pro oil dye. If you have any fingerprints or dirt on the sheath prior to dyeing that should come off.I use Oxalic acid ( Wood Bleach)mixed with some water to clean, after drying a light coat of alcohol will have it eady to start. Dampen the leather, then as has been said circular motions till covered.After drying apply your top coat of Leather sheen or Tan-kote.Dave:)
 
I tried the wet leather, circular application, and it worked great. I love that this forum has a sheath section. I have been trying to improve my sheath making technique. My assumption is that if someone pays decent money for a knife they should have a decent sheath to carry it in.
 
A tip I picked up from Chuck Burrow's video is combining your dampening and deglazing. I put on some latex gloves, hold the sheath, and evenly spray it with denaturated alcohol from a spray bottle and wipe it down. The alcohol you buy contains a percentage of water, so it serves to deglaze and dampen the leather slightly. Then I dip-die immediately after for best results.

--nathan
 
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