Explain how Etching works?

[remist17]

As some of you may know I am relatively new to knife making. I was hoping someone can help explain how etching works and what is the best beginner setup to do this. I see alot of posting on etchomatics and others but I am not sure what I need to start out. I am currently using 1084 and stainless steel for my blades. Thanks.

 

[samuraistuart]

I assume you mean etching a logo onto a blade as opposed to etching a hamon on carbon steel. It is very easy, cool, and fun to do on your own. You can buy the machines, personalizers they call them I think, or make your own. I made my own, but had Ernie make my stencils so they look pro. To make the stencil, you need tape, the better the tape the better! Cut your design/logo out of the tape, and then place the tape onto your blade where you want the logo. Pull out your cordless drill battery. Figure out which terminal is + and -. Usually the positive is towards the front of batter. Hook two wires from the batter, positive going to the blade, the negative going to a Qtip. Mix some etching solution .....brine and vinegar work well. Brine alone works well. Salt in water is all you need. Mix well. Dip the Qtip into the solution and then shake off excess. Apply the qtip to the logo you have cut out on the tape, quickly and briefly making swipes across the logo, like up one side, down the middle, up the other. Some sort of quick easy pattern. You should just barely hear the etching sizzle. Use Windex (ammonia) to negate the etch solution. Then take the tape off. Underneath will be a nice etched image. The machines are better, because the voltage is correct (18V batteries really will etch in a hurry....gotta be careful), and they also have a switch over to A/C which darkens the logo. They are nice to have, and they don't use stupid Qtips, but a nice pad. You can always make an etching pad yourself instead of Qtips. I don't do many knives all at once, so my homemade set up works quite well. Hope that helped

 

[Jason Wernli]

This is a great thread for me as I am about to get started etching also. My plan is to buy a machine to have a little more control. Where is a good place to have my logo made into a stencil?
- J

 

[remist17]

Yea sorry for the confusion I am looking to etch the logo onto the blades. What machines are better then others. I see all the knife places sell them. Some as cheap as 100 bucks some over 200.

 

[Freds Edge]

I would recommend you go to earniesknives.com , he has most all the info you will need and a great person to talk to.

 

[N.N]

I use Ernie's stencils and simply connect 2 9 volt batteries together. It takes a little longer...like 4 or 5, 3 second reps in intervals of 10...but it works. I took the end of a file (the small handle end with just enough of the flat of the file still attached) and attach one alligator lead to it with a piece of old t-shirt as the pad...works much better than the qtip. I also switched to using knifedogs etching solution and find that it works better than salt water. It's cleaner and crisper. After the etch is deep enough, flip the leads and it will blacken the mark.

Trust me when I say I've tried the cheapest ways possible. If you use Ernie's stencils, or similar, you're going to want a little better method of delivery than the q-tip/saltwater method. It burned up stencils quick for me which gets expensive.

I can give you some pics of my "as cheap as professional looking etch should get" setup if you would like.

 

[rhinoknives]

I have gotten my stencils from Electro-Chem etch for 18+ years. they are one of the first for aerospace and knife making. A nice British sounding lady named Maria usually answers the phone. You send them what you want and they make a group of stencils in three sizes.

I have their Personalizer Plus unit and I have nothing but good things to say about it. Several of the supply houses sell them. so look around if your funds are tight. The unit comes with everything you need except your own stencil. There is a wand and extra felt, solution etc…

Have fun and make some knives.

 

[N.N]

Ok,

1. connect 2 9 volt batteries
2. positive lead goes to the knife, negative to the file end (my etching pad)
3. wrap t-shirt piece around the flat of the file one layer thick
4. secure with twist tie
5. squirt just enough solution on pad to make it damp, wet, not dripping.
6. hold pad on stencil for 3 seconds, 10 times, take a few seconds break or you'll burn up the stencil.
7. repeat steps 5 and 6 until etch is as deep as you like, I go for at least 4 complete cycles, maybe 5 to 6 depending on battery life (they last a while)
8. reverse positive and negative leads and do it backwards for a few cycles to blacken the mark.

I also use the grinder to take the rust off the pad (file) before I start. Use scotch tape to secure the stencil to the blade...this way you can actually lift one edge to check the depth and put it back down to keep going if you need. My avatar here^ and plenty of examples are on my facebook page pics, it works and it's cheap but may take a little practice...practice first.

I hope this helps!

 

[remist17]

Thank you! ! Sure is better than hundred bucks when im only doing two knives a year

 

[N.N]

Thank you! ! Sure is better than hundred bucks when im only doing two knives a year

that was my thought as well. As a newer maker myself, I couldn't justify that kind of money and set out to find a cheaper way of doing it. The qtip method works, but it's messy and much harder to get an even etch. This way is cleaner and you can cover the whole stencil at once making it even. The solution seems to be a little cleaner and better than salt water as well, in my opinion. I've done many etches with that one bottle and it's not even half way gone yet. It's well worth the few dollars in my opinion.

Just be sure to follow the 3 second rule and let it cool...Ernie's website has some good tips for taking care of the stencils. Burning up stencils will get expensive, quick.

One of these days I hope to be making enough to warrant a machine, but this works for now.