Gonna build first liner lock or frame lock need help with parts

[Grussing_Custom_Knives]

I don't know if I should make a liner or frame lock. I don't have a milling machine. So I don't know if I should use a Drexel to cut out lockbar. I don't know all the parts I need but I have a start:
3/16 pivot (don'tt know what kind of pivot like a pivot barrel?)
1/8 pivot for stop pin (still don't know what kind of pivot)
2-56 tap
2-56 countersink screws
some type of counter sinker?
6-4 titanium .63 for liner .138 for frame lock
3/16 01 tool steel or 1804 steel?(I use 01 for my fixed blades)
1/8 g10
#49 drill bit for screw hole will be taped
3/16 drill bit for pivot
1/8 drill bit for 1/8 pivot for stop pivot
3/16 counterbore?
1/8 counterbore?
thumb stud
Any help would be great!
thx!

 

[RangerMadeKnives]

The linerlock will be easier since the Ti will be thinner but you'll have to figure out the scales as an extra step. Do not drill your pivot hole with a 3/16" drill; drill it with an undersize and ream to final size. I use a #15. I also recommend using the same technique for your stop pin holes. I actually drill my stop pin holes to final size in one shot but I use a high-precision straight flute carbide drill. Best thing to do is just get started and when you run into problems/questions post up and ask. Hope you've made some knives before and are not starting with this as your first knife.

Bob

 

[BossDog]

Pivots, stop pins, spacers, washer thickness, blade thickness decisions have to be made before you begin.

Start with a blade thickness. It needs to be nearly exact and you build your parts selection with the blade thickness in mind. That is maybe the most tedious part of the process - getting the blade thickness exactly where it needs to be to fit the parts.
example:
if you pick .125" blade thickness (and most do for a liner lock)

You then pick washer thickness (most are using .015" or .020") for liner locks.
Once you have the washer thickness, pick a detent ball size. 1/16" is probably most popular but 2mm is gaining on it as it gives you another .010" to .015" to work with depending on how you seat it.
Add up the thickness of the washers and blade .125" + 2x.015" = .155" stack
Your stand off's or spacer bar needs to be .155" thick
You stop pin, if it a shouldered pin should have a "grip" length of .155 to .156". A straight stop pin held in place by the liner should include the liner thickness in your stack. ie .155" + 2x.063" = .281" or just under.
You pivot length depends on style of pivot. A shouldered pivot will need a grip length of .155/.156" a barrel pivot will be the same length as the stop pins

Once you have that figured out. Order your parts.

Fixed blades you don't have to do the math. You just put it together. Folders you have to make some plans first.

Cutting a liner lock bar with a dremel is how just about everyone does their first ones. I know one high end maker still uses one on every knife. Get the reinforced discs and you will go through several to get the lock cut. It just takes a little time and patience. The looks of your first cut bar with a dremel won't be anything to write home about. Some guys set up their drill press with a cutting wheel (1/16" thick) and use a sliding vise on the table.

Folder making can be intimidating but don't let it. Just jump in, make plenty of mistakes to learn from, knock some out and have fun.
t

 

[N.N]

thanks boss....in the past when i've done research, I've not found that explained so simply.... I've also been thinking about a folder attempt or two.

 

[Grussing_Custom_Knives]

I have 3/16 steel for it. I actully ordered .138 titainium(x2 13 by 8 slabs) from AKS and piviots plus screws(You guys were out of stock).
and im making a frame lock. A friend has a mill but he only has 1/4-1/2 bits And no cut off wheels. Ive nade fixed blades. Below is what i ordered from u guys.