Grinding push stick

Frankallen

Frankallen

Well-Known Member
Would someone please let me know how to make a knife grinding push stick.:confused: I hit one of knuckles today on a belt and I am really getting tired of wearing Band aids. If someone could post a photo of one, that would be great!:D....Any help will be greatly appreciated!!

Frank
 
I just took a peice of scrap wood and left a notch at the bottom to hold the blade but i have been meaning to make one i saw someone else use they took a 6" peice of broom handle and drilled a hole right down the center and put a peice of round copper pin stock in it
 
I just use pieces of scrap as well. Notch the bottom a bit to help support the blade and thats it.

SDS
 
I'm in Bama's position but have been wondering about using a wine cork as a push stick. Might be a little sticker than wood... Jim Siska, who turned me on to this, uses various things but they all seem to have a rod of metal down the middle. I've got a couple of otherwise useless pen blanks that someone sent me with a wood order that might make nice push sticks. But maybe the simple cork will work better?
 
Typically, if I'm using a push stick, I use the work rest to support the work and the push stick to pin-point pressure for grinding. I just use a piece of scrap micarta that I've rounded off. I prefer a slick push stick to something sticky, as I typically am moving my work and need the push stick to change position on it smoothly. I know makers who use UHMW plastic for that reason.

The only time I use a push stick without the work rest is when I'm tapering a tang, as I need the control my hands give me.

If your belt is "grabbing" your work and pulling it down causing you to suddenly thrust your knuckles into the belt (been there, done that), you may what to try a different belt brand (Norton's Trizacts/Gators work well for me whereas I found Klingspors to be very grabby), try less pressure, or try wiping the blade dry after each dunk in the water bucket. A wet belt will typically grab more than a dry one, especially if it's just wet in spots.

--nathan
 
I use 3/8 wooden dowels. I grind a taper on one end and a step on the other. the tapered end is for putting pressure when needed and the notched end is to hold the bottom of the blade. Using the dowels you can grind them however you want in a few seconds.
 
I can't use push sticks. I need to feel what I'm grinding. I need to feel the heat and how the belt is cutting. Have you tried taping your fingers with that sticky mesh tape?
I think Tracy might sell it. I use it on my forefingers. Works great.
-John
 
After I saw Dr. Batson use a magnet to grind a beautiful Bowie, I ran to Harbor Freight and got both the 100# pickup and 150#pickup magnets. I use the 100# for grinding. It holds the blade really well and keeps your fingers away from the belt. It seems to allow good control of pressure against the platen. I could never control the blade well with my off hand with a stick. The 150# magnet is on my anvil to help stop the ringing.
Pat
 
I'm just starting to learn the fine art of blade grinding,trying to find methods to improve my grinding feel.I know practice is the only way to get profient at any skill,Trying to grind up some 1095 stock I bought just for this purpose.My Dozier grinder is so smooth running,Tracking is second to none!Now to put it to work!:DUsing a push stick is still new to me,wrapping my thumbs with tape seems to give me more feel especially hollow grinding.I'm experimenting with all the different techniques knifemakers use,The magnet idea sounds good,I bought a magnet from K&G last year to use to flatten my bar stock on my platen.The magnet was made for holding the blade while grinding.I'm trying it today.
 
I use a piece of 1/4 inch micarta which is 1 inch by 4 inches long. I cut a groove about 1/4 inch up the end when held vertical. I then have 3/4 inch to use to push again the back of the blade to push the edge into the wheel. I put the profiled blade edge up in the holder and hold the blade about an inch from the end of the blade. It give me more support and then can tilt it to grind more bevel on a side. I also use this same stick to hold the back of the handle when I do a tapered tang on a flat platten.
 
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I use a file handle. Insert a round piece of 3/16 rod and adjust lenght as needed.

Marcel
 
1/4" aluminum bar, I back angle cut the shelf so its more of a natural angle for me at the grinder. Also sorta v-grooved the notch so I can approach the blade at an angle if neeeded. I use the tool rest to rest my push stich hand on. I've used balled up paper towel and cork as well. But only when pre-HT grinding. I use bare fingers after HT so I can feel the heat before it ruins the temper.
Sharp belts make a real difference as well. They tend to take off more hide before you can get away from them !
 
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