Handle design for comfortable fit and balance

Eddie Mullins

Eddie Mullins

Well-Known Member
I want to make my own knife and handle designs, not just copy and existing patterns and am trying to figure out the best approach to do so. I sketched out a knife Friday, and attempted to forge one Saturday. I may post some WIP pics of the process, but what I discovered was that the handle just didn't feel good in my hand, so I opted to modify the overall look of the handle for that knife.

Here's the sketch in question. 4 1/4" handle , 8 1/4" overall

Photo-0273.jpg

Today, I decided to make a wood template with a handle that fit my hand well and incorporate that into the knife for a new attempt. I did and oversized rough blank with the scroll saw and shaped to feel with the belt sander and rotary tool. Its about 1/2" shorter than the original and has a contour change. It fits quite well.

08-04-13 1 revision.jpg


So, whats your method for designing good feeling/fitting and functional handles? Do you make wood or mock ups out of some material to check fit? Are there general proportions you use as a rule of thumb?

It now also seems to me that the ultimate custom knife would be fit to the users hand size. Do you ever do handles that are custom fit for a specific person?

And a kind of follow up question, how do you achieve the right balance between the handle and blade? Other than drilling several holes to lighten the handle, it seems that the handle to blade proportions would need to be considered in the initial design. And then what about the added weight of scales or handle materials? Is this trial and error until you figure out a design that works?
 
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With handles, I've found that sometimes simplest is best. I try to reduce any completely flat spots or points as much as possible, and round off any corners, as they tend to create a "hot spot" when really bearing down on the knife or using it for an extensive period of time.

Typically, the less complex a handle is, the more "universal" it will be, or the more hands it will fit. That's not to say you should make them all plain and boring, or eliminate finger grooves every time, but it can often help.
 
As for balance, there's no set formula. Ask 10 different people how a knife should balance, and you'll likely get 10 different answers.

Some knives and their applications lend well to being blade heavy, some in the middle, some at the handle, some at the index finger, etc....
A lot of it depends on the intendid role of the knife: chopper, slicer, carver, etc....

Personally, if I drill extra holes in the handle, it's typically for overall weight reduction (or for a better epoxy bond) than it is for balance.

I'm not saying that balance isn't an importan consideration, or something you shouldn't worry about at all, but I wouldn't spend too much time worrying about it on your average blade. At least not to the point that you're weighing parts with a jeweler's scale. ;)
 
I taper the tang during forging on my full tangs. That seems to provide the balance I'm looking for. Handle design just seems to come into it's own as I start profiling the blade and then grind the scales. I've only done a few narrow tang knives and haven't got the process of balancing those down yet.

I sometimes do a wooden template.
 
I focus on the usability of the knife which negates radical humps and bumps. I've always listened to the people who actually use their knives. It's pretty rare that a user holds the knife with a closed fist in the upright position. It's usually a pinch grip over the bolster/ guard loosely held in the hand. A comfortable palm swell and taper to the handle will beat out hinky finger cut outs and radical offset handles. The knife should be functional and comfortable any way you turn it in your hand. Like Andrew said, "universal". It all depends if you're making the knife for show or go. Just my 2 pennies worth.


Rudy
 
First i look at this in two parts,
1) The shape of the profile of the knife handle in the blank.

There has a drop in the rear, i don't go for straight stick handles. Then I design in the index and second finger cut outs in relation to a thumb ramp or and a pinch grip hold.

2)
I then have the customer put thier using hand on a sheet of paper and trace all around it including the wrist.
I use this for sizing the thickness of the scales for the customer.

I shape the scales once mounted in a oval with the top being rounder and the sides and bottom of the scales closing in at a steeper angle. I try to imagine the hand on the paper closing around the knife scales and shape accordingly.

I also remove all corners and any places that could give hot spots. The heavy textured rough look with lots of right angles that is the "in look" right now, is not what I am after.


I radius everything on the handle and knife except for that one cutting edge. You want to be able to use a knife all day and not develop any hot spots or blisters. My final hand sanding is 600-1000 grit. depending on end use of the knife.

There are many ways to achieve a attractive and comfortable handle. This was a few notes on how I do it.

I hope this helps.
Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
Some good general guidelines in the above posts - Thanks!

Laurence - I think it really interesting that you do measure the customers hand to fit the handle to them.

Maybe I am just overthinking this. I definitely feel form should follow function and the knife should be comfortable in the hand. I'm not concernerned with exxagerated designs that make a statement, but do want some tapers or palm swells at least, so its not plain Jane, and so I don't feel lilke I am just copying another's knife.

I'm kind of torn with the need to create the design myself. I mean lets face it, the tried and true handle patterns out there are tried and true for a reason, the shape works. For example my EDC is a Benchmade with index finger groove and I love the way the handle fits my hand, I'm tempted to basically duplicate its profile for knives of similar proportion, but somehow it just doesn't seem like the right thing to do.


BTW - this is my current WIP , and thanks to using the wood template to work out the profile first, this knife feels good in the hand. Just needs a little more tweeking, and of course some more clean up.

DSC07119.JPG
 
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Eddie Mullins said:
Some good general guidelines in the above posts - Thanks!

Laurence - I think it really interesting that you do measure the customers hand to fit the handle to them.

Maybe I am just overthinking this.

I'm kind of torn with the need to create the design myself. I mean lets face it, the tried and true handle patterns out there are tried and true for a reason, the shape works. For example my EDC is a Benchmade with index finger groove and I love the way the handle fits my hand, I'm tempted to basically duplicate its profile for knives of similar proportion, but somehow it just doesn't seem like the right thing to do.


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Eddie,
Benchmade didn't invent the index finger cutout and the designer was inflenced by all of the knives he had held and played with in his lifetime. So there is nothing wrong with starting with a handle you like and improving on it.

Another way to take hand size data is to use a non stick modeling clay. I did this for a while but then realized that i could work from a closed finger flat hand sketch.

Your lastest pattern would look good with a index finger cut out.

Have fun.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
Eddie Mullins said:
I want to make my own knife and handle designs, not just copy and existing patterns and am trying to figure out the best approach to do so. I sketched out a knife Friday, and attempted to forge one Saturday. I may post some WIP pics of the process, but what I discovered was that the handle just didn't feel good in my hand, so I opted to modify the overall look of the handle for that knife.

Here's the sketch in question. 4 1/4" handle , 8 1/4" overall

View attachment 41684

Today, I decided to make a wood template with a handle that fit my hand well and incorporate that into the knife for a new attempt. I did and oversized rough blank with the scroll saw and shaped to feel with the belt sander and rotary tool. Its about 1/2" shorter than the original and has a contour change. It fits quite well.

View attachment 41685


So, whats your method for designing good feeling/fitting and functional handles? Do you make wood or mock ups out of some material to check fit? Are there general proportions you use as a rule of thumb?

Handle shape and feel are two of the reasons I started making knives. I have large hands, long fingers, and artheritis; so the one size fits none handles of most commercial knives didnt work. I just kinda trial and error the first couple to get in the ball park. Now, when blade is done and handle is close, I test it in the kitchen and figure out fixes. I also have my wife use it. she has very small hands and M.D., but a larger handle works well for her. just my toosense.
the old sailor
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Great Topic - I have been recently trying to come up with a few designs and was wondering this same question. I am looking forward to other peoples responses here.
 
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