Has anyone seen this wood before, if so? CAN YOU NAME IT???

McClellan Made Blades

Well-Known Member
I've been trying to get some of this for a while, it looks like great wood for knife handles, not knowing if it will work GREAT for handles, I picked up a couple of pieces to check it out to make sure! I love this wood, for obvious reasons, but had never heard of it, so I turn to you Dogs, tell me what you think! If you KNOW what the name of it is and have used it, tell me how well it performs. This wood is dry meaning I didn't wet it or put anything on it to enhance it in any way, which makes it even more impressive....color wise! Looking forward to hearing back from you guys to see what you all have to say! If y'all need close up shots feel free to ask!

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Thanks, Rex
 
The chatoyancy and grain reminds me of black walnut, but it's not quite dark enough. I did just do a search for english walnut burl and walnut burl and found some pieces that looked similar.
 
OK,
So far no one is close to what I was told this was called, I got to thinking about how so many different woods can have regional names. So to the best of my knowledge, no one has given the name I was told it was called. Here is the smaller of the 2 pieces after I wet it. All it did was get a little darker, but the chatoyance didn't. It actually got a bit more active. So far No ONE has said if they like it!?!?! As my wife would say, "Is it not gorgeous? I usually say,"Errrrr..."
So here is the next two pics, wet. Not a lot of difference, just a bit darker,
I was thinking, it might be interesting to see what it would look like with some Danish Oil on it. If it
isn't evident, I'll go ahead and tell y'all it's Burl! Thanks Guys,Rex

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I'll go ahead and tell y'all it's Burl!


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Looks a like white walnut burl ( butternut) ?????? I have an antique side board , looks nearly identical ??/
 
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It looks like one of the Oak species to me. I have several oak burls with this look. Or maybe a locust burl.
No matter what it isi it is nice looking.
 
Google up Ironwood and I think that you'll find that it's a term that is applied to many species of wood from different continents, so you're not much farther ahead than you were to begin with.

Doug
 
A little word to the wise on ironwood ....Olneya Tesota. Theres a seller out there selling some Central American burl (big slabs) and claiming its Desert Ironwood. Well it's not. Its also been put up for sale on some of the boards and called "ironwood".... and resold......again as ironwood. Big difference in those 2 species. Those slabs (if they were real DIW, would be near $1K, not $124) So sometimes those deals that seem to be too good to be true, are just that...... Caveat Emptor. Sorry for the side track Rex..........nice looking burl. Larry
 
Guess what?
It's called?
Burl wood! :biggrin: Depending, with all the possible variables there are many that can look like that from my experience. LOL.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com


OK, Sorry guys, I've been a bit out of it the last couple of days, so I'll go ahead and tell you all what I was told it was called, White Teak Burl. It reminds me of another wood that I doubt I can spell correctly anyway,
Gmedila,... or something like that, the wood I'm referring to there is very expensive. These 2 pieces plus another block of Amboyna burl was 74.00 shipped. This is some beautiful wood, I'll let y'all know how it works and IF I like it.

My first impression of it was nothing like Teak, too light, too smooth, more refined even for a burl. The chatoyance, (sp), is amazing in this wood, it literally shimmers! Stay tuned guys more to come...Rex
 
I've looked into the white teak, its a good wood, but not what us boat guys are used to sanding and varnishing. Here is a pic of my rigging knife with Curly Teak scales, it is stabilized wood...

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Here is some amboyna burl I just recently used on this razor, it also looks similar to your teak specimen..

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And here is a Black walnut burl cut from family farm 15 years ago...

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All three above look similar to your block. I would check the moisture content of the wood, if at 10% or less then I would have it stabilized. True teak woods can be a little oily and cause issues with glue sticking. There is a guy in Hawaii selling white teak burls for not much money on the bay but they are still green and need to dry for 6mos to a year before they are ok to use.


-Xander
 
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