Help. Milling out liners on slipjoints

Cubane

Well-Known Member
I have a few slip joint projects getting ready to finish up and given I now have one of those bench top milling machines now I thought it would be good to try out milling some relief around the pivot so my stamp mark doesn't get all scratched up. I have seen the method Tony Bose uses at his website and I was just wondering if there are any other methods people use. I have a few liners to practice on but I thought I would check out how others are doing this before I start building jigs. I don't have a background of working in machine shops or anything so this would be the first time using it for a milling operation rather than just a drill press and cutting the nail nicks

Alistair
 
Get a piece of thin plastic transparent and make a template with scissors of what you want removed then just transfer the design to the other liner mark it 1 and 2 so you don't get confused as to which side is which. It's how I make sure both sides match.
 
I think I understand that and then you just clamp it down to a tooling plate and mill within the lines?
 
Yeah I forgot to tell you to use some dykem/layout fluid and scribe around the template. but you get the point. I try to take between .005 and .009 off depending on the thickness of the material.
 
Well milled my first liners today. It worked out really well. I did the plastic outline thingy to make sure the pattern was the same on both sides and they line up together really well. Thanks for all the help people.
 
Well you asked for it. Here is one showing the bit of plastic I cut out and the final result on the other liner. I just used some of the plastic that all tech goods seem to come in these days that is impossible to open even with a knife :) I drilled some holes in it through the liners so it was possible to line it up easily on both sides of the knife. Scribed where it should go and milled it out.

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Alistair
 

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You'll have to wait at least a week. The in-laws are coming to visit this weekend :eek: Everything is ready to do the final hand sanding and then assembly. It was a bit frustrating to put it aside knowing it is so close.

Alistair
 
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I use a small rotary table on my milling machine. I am able to get a VERY accurate cut from side to side. I leave the table set up on my mill and only takes a few minutes per frame to cut. I will normally take a .007 cut

Ken
 
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