ziozeb
Well-Known Member
You have to bevel a blade leaving a thickness at around 1,5 mm . the blade was finshed now with 120 coarse paper .
Now you have to draw the shape of the blade on a see-through sheet .
on which you have to mark the hamon line
Cut from the sheet the line of the hamon and use it for making both the side of the blade .
The mentioned step is quite important in order to have symmetrical hamon line
No we start :
the right compactness
Let it dry for at least 24 hours
Now it's time to temper the blade ( I am using a gas forge ) .
Heat the blade to the right temperature , then quench it in water for about 3-4 seconds , then immediately finish to quench it in oil
Pictures are scrap , here below the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LaPIEinT9_o&list=UU0PWcMT4Kf_-o9W_5g0V34Q&index=1
Brush away satanite
then in the oven for tempering
Let the blade getting cold and then start removing the oxide layer with 60 grit belt and then continue polishing
grit 60
120, then 240
up to 600
800 ,1000
soldering the guard
After perfectly degreasing the blade , sink it for 4-5 mins in a moisture made up of 1 part of ferric chloride and 5 part of water
Remove the oxyde left by the chloride washing the blade with soap and water
Repeat this step three times ( chloride-washing) in order to let the chloride going deeper in the steel
Now sink the blade in water mixed with baking soda to quit the effects of the chloride
cover the blade with a lot of oil , pack it in paper and let it rest night time
then I start to roughly polishing the blade with a cotton wheel and some green polishing paste .
Then by hand wit kleenex and etilic alcohol Icontinue cleaning the blade , paying attention to use a clean piece of paer as soon as it becomes dirty
..... continue polishing with bodyshop paste and a wool cloth
have a look at the different porosity of betwwen the harder part and the softer part of the blade
The blade before the bodyshop polishing paste
After the polishing paste
Blade is now finished
Now you have to draw the shape of the blade on a see-through sheet .
on which you have to mark the hamon line
Cut from the sheet the line of the hamon and use it for making both the side of the blade .
The mentioned step is quite important in order to have symmetrical hamon line
No we start :
the right compactness
Let it dry for at least 24 hours
Now it's time to temper the blade ( I am using a gas forge ) .
Heat the blade to the right temperature , then quench it in water for about 3-4 seconds , then immediately finish to quench it in oil
Pictures are scrap , here below the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LaPIEinT9_o&list=UU0PWcMT4Kf_-o9W_5g0V34Q&index=1
Brush away satanite
then in the oven for tempering
Let the blade getting cold and then start removing the oxide layer with 60 grit belt and then continue polishing
grit 60
120, then 240
up to 600
800 ,1000
soldering the guard
After perfectly degreasing the blade , sink it for 4-5 mins in a moisture made up of 1 part of ferric chloride and 5 part of water
Remove the oxyde left by the chloride washing the blade with soap and water
Repeat this step three times ( chloride-washing) in order to let the chloride going deeper in the steel
Now sink the blade in water mixed with baking soda to quit the effects of the chloride
cover the blade with a lot of oil , pack it in paper and let it rest night time
then I start to roughly polishing the blade with a cotton wheel and some green polishing paste .
Then by hand wit kleenex and etilic alcohol Icontinue cleaning the blade , paying attention to use a clean piece of paer as soon as it becomes dirty
..... continue polishing with bodyshop paste and a wool cloth
have a look at the different porosity of betwwen the harder part and the softer part of the blade
The blade before the bodyshop polishing paste
After the polishing paste
Blade is now finished