The lock bar pivot hole is drilled and in the second picture you can see that there's plenty of material to take off the kick and the end of the tang later
Matt, you got it right. I use end mills anywhere from 3/8" to 1/2" so the relief will accommodate the entire flat area from the tang to the plunge.Mr. Johnson,
Thank you for this excellent pictorial. I'm walking into the realm of slipjoints, as it appears I don't have enough stress in my life right now:3:, and this thread has been a terrible instigator.
A question, if I may - what size endmill are you using to cut the relieve the liners? I'm guessing .500", but I'd rather not guess. Is there anything you use to determine how much relief you need, width wise? Is the only factor the size of ricasso and bearing surface of the blade?
On a side note said:Since I already had patterns for slipjoints and I wanted to make a lockback, I needed to know exactly how the lock functioned so I bought the book mentioned in post #1. After studying how to design the lock it was a matter of adapting that to traditional patterns.
As for the slipjoint patterns, I've drawn patterns from scratch and I've taken old knives apart to trace. I've also asked other knifemakers for patterns and they have always been very accommodating!