Looking for constructive criticism on 3rd slipjoint.
- Thread starter slatercreek
- Start date
slatercreek
Well-Known Member
The only disappointing thing is I didn't quite get the pivot pin hidden. Snaps open and shut. Blade centers up nicely. Had a little problem with that on the first two.
Don Robinson
Well-Known Member
Nice work. Next time, use a drill one size larger than the pivot and make a slight counterbore on each side of the pivot. That will let the pivot pin expand and fill the tops of the holes.
For instance if your pin is 1/8 (.125) use a #30 (.1285) drill at the top of the hole each side.
For instance if your pin is 1/8 (.125) use a #30 (.1285) drill at the top of the hole each side.
slatercreek
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the comments. I believe the problem on my pin may be that I left to much excess pin stock sticking out when I started peening. I think this caused the pin to swell prematurely and not properly fill in the pivot hole. I could be wrong but that was one thing I got right on the first two. I would rather be lucky than good any day.
I think it looks good for your third also.
You can replace the pivot pin if you want. Just punch mark the center of the pin and drill part way with a smaller drill bit. I use a 1/16 drill bit for a 3/32 pin and drive the old pin out with a 1/16 pin punch.
Taper the holes like Don Robinson said or use a tapered reamer. I use a carbide reamer and taper it down about .030. You want it deep enough that you don’t sand off that much when finishing and not too deep that the pin will not fill.
Clean the hole good and sand and clean the pins, I use acetone. Polish the face and peen end of a small ball peen hammer and just use it for this. Peen it with the flat part of the hammer to swell the pin in the taper instead of mushrooming the top with the round peen end. Use the round end to peen the handle pins where you do not want the pins to swell inside the holes.
You can replace the pivot pin if you want. Just punch mark the center of the pin and drill part way with a smaller drill bit. I use a 1/16 drill bit for a 3/32 pin and drive the old pin out with a 1/16 pin punch.
Taper the holes like Don Robinson said or use a tapered reamer. I use a carbide reamer and taper it down about .030. You want it deep enough that you don’t sand off that much when finishing and not too deep that the pin will not fill.
Clean the hole good and sand and clean the pins, I use acetone. Polish the face and peen end of a small ball peen hammer and just use it for this. Peen it with the flat part of the hammer to swell the pin in the taper instead of mushrooming the top with the round peen end. Use the round end to peen the handle pins where you do not want the pins to swell inside the holes.
Keith Willis
Well-Known Member
As Dc said,looks like a knifemaker made that one.
Looks great!
God bless,Keith
Looks great!
God bless,Keith
slatercreek
Well-Known Member
Alright I have a picture of the first three slipjoints in order from left to right. The first one I will say turned out pretty good considering that the drill press at the ranch wouldn't accept a 3/32 drill bit. Ended up using a hand drill. Great lesson in the mechanics of slipjoints. I tend to learn more from the mistakes I make than anything else. I will be hauling down the drill press from the cabin this fall before the snow gets too deep. I would like to give credit to an older gentleman from Florida for all the helpful insight into building a folding knife. He has been feeding me information for several years. It was only last winter that I finally had time to apply that knowledge. Thanks to a mentor and friend Maxie. Hopefully I get a chance to complete a couple more this winter.