I'm not a professional sharpening guy. I have been sharpening my own knives, by hand, for about 30 years. I've learned quite a bit along the way and still continue to learn.
I have arrived at a skill level that does not require guides. I know systems like "wicked edge, lansky, and other types" can produce excellent results, but I can produce better results, by hand. By hand, I've been able to develop edges that will shave hair for their full length and slice paper near effortlessly. Beyond that, I've personally produced edges (with steel and hardening that will accept improved edge geopmetry) that will push cut tissue paper and cut an entire corner off a big-city phonebook.
By far, my preferred method is Japanese style water stones. Here are some lessons I've learned along the way:
1. About 95% of grinding (metal removal) part of sharpening occurs not at the edge, but just behind it. This is where the cut efficiency of most knives can be greatly improved. Sometimes I take a new bevel all the way to a point, sometimes I put an intentional micro-bevel there. Depends on the knife, intended use and quality of the finished blade steel itself.
2. I don't like the "jagged edge cuts better" school of thought. To me, these are unfinished edges that pull cut (actually micro-tear) through materials. I like polished edges and finer grades of Japanese water stones provide this.
3. Learn how to strop a blade correctly. Leather backed with hardwood works for almost everything. Not really required after a fine water stone, but will quickly improve the egde, bring it back from a bit of use and improve the finish.
4. Learn to develop, identify and observe the burr and how to remove it. Lots of internet bungle out there about this. You should have a burr at each stage of sharpening / honing. In the final stages, very fine stones or stropping, the burr may be impossible to see and feel; it should then be removed by pulling the edge through hard felt or soft wood. Hard felt is best in my experience.
5. I never use a butcher steel on my knives. It ruins them, in my opinion.
I use King brand water stones. Relatively inexpensive and consistent. They are not "natural," they are synthetically produced. Much the same result can be had with belts. I like the labor and feel involved with water stones and somehow think the steel prefers the cooler treatment (less heat) vs. the belts.
Below are a few photos of my near-everyday companion neck knife, a Murray Carter about 7.25" overall. It has a laminated blade with white #1 as the core clad in mild stainless. It is a forged and heat treated blade, the core is very hard. Yes, I use it. Yes, I've even chipped this high-performance edge (not hard to do) and repaired it too. This blade, like other good blades, responds very well to the above methods. New razor blades are not as sharp - really. Hard for me to photograph well, but I tried to catch the glint from the working edge; it is small and maybe only a degree or two more obtuse than the secondary bevel. Also, hand sharpening makes all angles very hard to measure since, by simple physics, "by hand" sharpening results in a slight convex shape to all bevels. Personally, I think that's a very good thing.
Hoping this is of some help for you - kind regards - redleg
I think you can "click" for a larger photo.
1095, edc style fixed blade, custom, new from maker exept for the improved edge
Benchmade, Mini Grip Ritter, m4 first run. User, but improved edge, with improved geometry, cuts like a laser.
redleg
