Need some help from folder makers

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I figured you guys would be able to help me get the answers I am looking for.
Those of you who make folders and sometimes use wood for handle material I would like to hear what you have to say. I am not looking for answers of what is normal to the industry but what works best for you.

I don't see many knife making supply companies offering scales other than 3/8" thick. Does that mean folder makers cut their own? Or would there be any interest in thin cut bookmatched scales?

What are good dimensions for scales? Length, Width, Thickness?

Do you prefer stabilized? I ask because in my mind it seems like it would be real easy to saturate thin scales with CA glue as an alternative to the higher cost of stabilized wood. (Does that make sense?)

Do you prefer to cut your own scales from a block? If yes, what are minimum dimensions? (I ask this because I get a lot of pieces that are smaller than normal fixed blade blocks but still killer pieces)

Is there any other advice you can give or anything special you have a hard time finding?

I ask these questions for 2 reasons.
#1 I get a lot of cut off pieces I think would be great for folders.
#2 I would like to see what some of you folder makers could do with some of my wood.

As a thank you for your help with these questions I would be happy to send you some wood to try out if you can pay the postage and maybe post a photo or two of the finished knife when you use it. I will need to limit this to a couple dozen of you guys.

Thanks in advance for all your great advice.
Your friend, Mark
 
Personally, I don't use much wood because I fear that the pins won't hold or clasp wood as well as Bone, Stag or Ivory....that just may be my own paranioia unsure

I have considered trying more wood but don't really have the luxury of enough time to experiment. Most of my customers are not requesting wood and also are not into the "unnaturally dyed and stabilized stuff". IMO it just seems to slick...or plastic like....granted I have not used it so I'm making a very uneducated statement! But if the material is soft it would have to be stabilized to handle the stress of the spring and pins... so there would have to be concessions made.

My thought has always been to start with the more traditional "folder woods" like Rosewood, Ironwood, or Ebony. However, I must say that your burl woods have caught my eye recently and I have contemplated giving them a try.

As for size...4 1/2"x 1 1/4"x 1/4" would be good for larger folders, but on the average 4"x 1"x 3/16" would work fine.

I hope this helps, it was not meant to be condemning in any way. :)
 
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Brent,
I agree with your customers about the dyed woods. As far as unnatural, a lot of my wood is unlike anything nature ever intended. I guess you could call some of it "freaks of nature". In a week or so I will be putting together some wood to send out to you folder makers to try out. Who knows, maybe you and your customers will like it.
Thanks for the good advice. Mark
 
Rusty McDonald said:
When I use wood it is custom cut for me. 1/8"thick is best for what I make usualy 1" wide. Ironwood mostly
Click to expand...

I was wondering about the 1/8" thickness. I have had a customer who asked me to resaw some blocks to that a while back. How do you feel about stabilized woods? Or do you just like to stick with the really hard woods? How long of pieces do you use? Sometimes I cut some manzanita burl but it is hard to get big solid areas. Might be able to come up with some good folder stuff though. Here is what manzanita looks like. Really hard stuff like ironwood.
19b.jpg

Thanks for the help. Mark
 
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1/8" will work but I like my folders a bit thicker in the back. As for the manzanita it looks good, and the harder the better.

"freaks of nature"...lol......that's one thing, but "Freaking Punk Rock of Nature"....that's something totally different!
 
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I use a little wood on folders but most requests I have are for bone.

I prefer stabilized for burl and softer woods.

Size depends on the folder and ¼ inch thick leaves me enough room to work with. I can generally use 3 inch by ¾ inch and up. I cut my own from blocks that are available, that can generate a good bit of waste for me. Some require a little wider scales, say 1 ½ to keep the grain flowing with the knife.

The colors depend on the customer. I have a lot of request for “School colors” or “special colors” from people wanting to buy a knife for graduation presents.

To answer your question, I think there is a market for folder sized blocks and scales much like the ivory, pearl, bone etc.

Craig
 
I like some stabilized woods, Box elder, buckeye burl, Some of the Walnuts on folders. I use the Stab. stuff on hunters a lot.
1/8" for folders is easier and there is little waste, I pay between 6 and 15 dollars for good 1.5x3.5x1/8" scales(Premium Iron wood scales) but if you think about it that's a lot. because I have gotten full size scales for $35 and gotten 5 knives out of them. It's all in how you look at it.

Matter of fact I keep a stock pile of them now. every chance I get I order more
 
Rusty, Craig and Brent, great advice so far. I would like to hear from some more folder makers. A lot of the fixed blade makers want walnut to be natural, not stabilized because you can get a better finish. How do you guys feel about that. Does anybody do a CA glue finish?
 
Hey ya all.

OK, here is my take - I'm very picky!
I do and have used a lot of wood on my knives.
Most of it is stabilized.
Most of it, I pick out in person.
Most of it, I buy in block and cut it my self for book match scales.
And most of it, I never really have had a problem with.
Some good stuff to use for scales, IF it is professionally stabilized?
Or it's a wood that does not need it, black wood, Iron wood and others.

Mark you look like you have some nice pieces there.
I may have to try some sometime?:) my supply is going down....:rolleyes:

later

Todd




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Hey Todd,
I was hoping you would give your input. Thanks. In a week or so I will be preparing some pieces for you folder guys to try out. I will send out some stuff that will look great on folders. I've been stashing a bunch of real good small pieces for a while and now it's getting to be time for them to get used. Any other input you can give is welcome.
Thanks, Mark

Rusty, Craig and Brent,
Thanks for the great advice. Anything you can think of helps me a lot. Next week I will be stabilizing a bunch of bizarre smaller pieces for you guys to try out.
Thanks again, Mark
 
Mark, as a maker who builds many folders I will say unless the wood is exceptionally hard naturally I prefer it to be stabilized. I don't mind slight color variations from natural,but i'm not really into the wild color variations although sometimes they turn out allright.The blocks you showed earlier are absolutely gorgeous and I would be willing to give a pair a try.THANKS Butch Ball Also do you stabilize wood for customers who have their own blocks? I have some beautiful maple burl a cabinetmaker gave me.
 
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Hey Butch,
I don't have enough time to stabilize wood other than my own. I have heard nothing but good things about WSSI and K&G. As far as wild color variations I only like them when they occur naturally. I have seen a lot of wood that was more bizarre than anything I could ever dream up. I am putting together a box of wood for folders that is really some wild looking stuff. Pretty soon I will send some for you guys to try out.
Thanks for your input. Mark
 
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