Questions about Little Giant 25lb Hammer

Don McNeil

Well-Known Member
I am going to look at a Little Giant 25lb Hammer tomorrow. It appears from the pictures to be in very good condition. It is supposed to be a "new model"from around 1947. Aside from the obvious...cracks/ loose bearings / or abuse. What are things I should be looking for when looking at this hammer? Also where should the pricing be based on good condition or better. I don't want to insult anyone with too low of an offer but would like to get the best deal possible for myself. My other option is to build a Krusty which I realize would be cheaper to build but a lot more work that I would need considerable help with. Mostly on the welding side. Any input will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Don McNeil
 
Don
Hopefully some of the guys here that own them will chime in.
A great resource is Sid Seudimer (sp?) He use to rebuild LG Hammer and had a wealth of knowledge on them.

Good Luck!
And God Bless
Mike
 
I don't own LGs anymore, (sold my LGs and went to an Air Hammer about 7 years ago) but had both 25 and 50lb models in my shop for almost 20 years. I've overhauled/rebuilt 25-30 in my time. One thing that I always tell folks to look for is shims in the main bearing journals.....(between the base and caps that hold the main shaft). If shims are present, you're likely not going to have to re-pour the main bearings....just possibly remove a shim or two to tighten up the main bearings. Next most important thing is to check for any "slop" in the flywheel....there should be a LITTLE slop, which was intended to be "grease space" in the hammer(s). Excessive slop would mean either re-pouring the flywheel babbit, or you could do what I always did....have it machined and a bronze sleeve bearing pressed in (makes em run like a singer sewing machine) :)

If it's a "new style" hammer, it will have "dovetail" guides for the slide.....check to make sure there isn't excessive slop in those dovetails....and if there is...how much adjustment to the three bolts on each side have?

Finally, check the dies carefully.....if they are correct, they should be held in place with a tapered/square pin......if the dies are welding in (and I've seen a bunch that way), walk away from it! It's nearly impossible to get the dies out without cracking/breaking the casting their seated in.

As far as money goes.....if the hammer is in "ready to run" condition, with motor, switch, good dies and all, $2,500-$3,200 is a fair price. If it needs work.....well, it all depends on what it needs. I've paid as little as $300 for a 25LG that needed a rebuild, and I sold my 25 (after I had rebuilt) for $3,200.
 
Thanks Ed that was exactly the info I was looking for. The guy is asking $3000 and I would be willing to pay that but I want to make sure if I am paying that kind of money I can use the hammer as is.
 
Main bearings had shims...not many but they were there. Flywheel only had very slight movement...almost none. And the dovetails for the slide also had slight movement but plenty of adjustment. Dies were attached by tapered square pins. I paid $3000.00 also got a second set of dies with it and some shims for the main bearings when I do need to re-pour. This may have been on the high side but my other alternative was making a Krusty or Rusty hammer. I think in the long run this was a better move for me. Even if I end up having to re-build in a year or two I think this is still the better hammer. Plus my shop is small so the small footprint works well for me.

Thanks for the link Ed...
 
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