Stabalizing

MT Knives

Well-Known Member
So I haven't been happy with my stabilizing processes so far, I am trying to stabilize some Myrtle and have tried several methods, here is my question. What are the places like Knife and Gun using? Vacuum or Pressure or both? So I understand that the vacuum will take the air out but I would think after you are done your scales should sink in the solution, mine are not. I found a pressurized process using Alumilite but not sure how that stuff penetrates the wood. Seems like the best process would be to use both first the vacuum ant then cure it under pressure. Also make me wonder if they are using a vac or pressure oven? Any more information would be much appreciated, Thank You
 
MT - so far as I know, there are only 2 methods for stabilizing wood, vacuum & vacuum and high pressure. Most folks who do "real" home stabilizing are using vacuum system since high pressure takes more equip - fairly expensive equip. No point in my retyping all this info on stabilizing when Curtis of Cactus Juice fame has laid it out. Check these two links:

http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?34630-Directions-for-using-Cactus-Juice

http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?34631-Cactus-Juice-Tips-for-Best-Results

Curtis is really nice and will "talk your ear off" on the phone to make sure you have a full understanding of his product.

There are some woods that just don't stabilize with home systems very well - your test of finish product sinking in water is very valid test. If the stabilizing resin (generic term) is fully absorbed thru-out the wood, it should sink.

I have not tried Myrtle wood, so can't comment on that. I have had good success with spalted pecan, and other open pore woods. American Black Walnut and Caro Walnut have not worked as well for me.

What is the stabilizing "resin" you are using?

Ken H>
 
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Things may have changed with all of the newer equipment and juice's that's available now for home use, But I can't remember seeing any home grown stabilizing that's close to what WSSI, K & G or a couple of the other long time stabilization outfits put out.
 
And I already read through them links but will look over them again to see if I missed something, I thought about maybe trying super glue or CA hot stuff I wonder how well it would work :D
 
Generally, the commercial guys are using vacuum followed by pressure. Time in the tank depends on the wood. It might be a couple days or a couple weeks. Dying the wood is done first and that can be a simple soak to some vacuum/ pressure. Many alcohol for their dye set up so pressure or soaking in dye is the norm. The wood has to be dry after dying.

minwax hardener does not work for us. The relatively new to market juices like Cactus Juice works as well as any commercial service but there is a learning curve in getting the juice into the wood and catalizing it properly. Technique matters and some practice and experimentation makes a big difference.

k&g and WSSI do a good job. You can also do it yourself now and get as good a result but you will need to gain some technique skills and additional equipment.
 
MT, are you using vacuum chamber? Are you stabilizing by following Curtis's directions closely, especially the drying, and length of time in vacuum before releasing vacuum? BE SURE TO LEAVE in Cactus Juice at ;east several hrs after releasing vacuum. Tracy is right, if the wood isn't completely saturated with hardener isn't stabilized correctly. Correctly stabilized, the wood will sink in water.

What other woods other than Myrtle have you tried? Do a test on a very open pore wood. With open woods like Spalted Pecan, and another spalted wood, don't remember the type, but still an open pore wood Cactus was 100% thru the wood, and it would sink like a rock after stabilizing. Other woods like Thuya and Walnut didn't take much at all and were a total fail at stabilizing.

Ken H>
 
I have found that home stabilizing (Using Cactus juice) works very well for small quantities of wood. I already had a vacuum set up and I found that doing a big piece of wood (4" x 4" x 6") took longer and did not do as good a job as on a small piece of wood suitable for scales. It is very convenient when I am in a hurry to get the job done. I cut my wood to a rough preform and then stabilize it. If I didn't already have the equipment, it would be cost prohibitive to get started.
 
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