What makes a hunter or a hunting knife?

[McClellan Made Blades]

Hey Dawgs,
When you think of a hunter style blade what comes to mind? For me, it is the Loveless style drop point, that design is more of a utility type of blade used for cleaning medium to large sized game, with the drop point being great for skinning, the dual function is probably why it is one of the most copied designs ever. When I was looking at what many makers and manufacturers call a hunter really doesn't fit my idea of a hunter, and several even use the term "drop point", while the blade tip is straight or even up swept. But what is the ultimate hunter design? That's easy to use, even for the beginner or first time user.

Last night I went surfing for "hunters", I found everything from the old up swept hunter with almost no belly, to the "Buffalo Skinner" that is almost all belly, to what looked like a generic blade shape that was straight backed from spine to the tip and called a hunter.

My purpose is not to split hairs about which hunter is the best or which design is the best. The purpose for this post is to open a discussion about what you DAWGS like in a blade used for hunting. Utility type blades are not what I'm looking for, but if the function is there, I'd like to see it. I know a skinner blade isn't good as a caper, and a caper won't blaze many trails, so let's try to keep this a little more specific, let's look at blade designs that are good skinner's, with the capacity for other hunting camp chores. Most hunters have about a 4" blade, if you like a longer or smaller sized blade, tell me why.

For all the makers chiming in, also include the Rockwell hardness you like.

OK, I've given you all a lot to work with, can't wait to see the responses, Thanks Dawgs, Rex

 

[Cameron Wilcox]

I usually picture a good hunting knife as something with a 4-5 inch blade and a standard drop point or clip point shape with a gentle curve for a belly. this seems to me like the most versatile shape for a knife.

Here are two rough designs that come to mind when I think of a hunter.

 

[McClellan Made Blades]

Cameron,
That looks pretty good! I can see the versatility of that design. The subject of clip point/drop point is interesting to me, the way a drop point has the ability to slip in between the hide and the membrane of the gut, similar to a gut hook, and basically unzips the belly of a deer makes it the better design over a clip point, I would think. I can't see a clip point not puncturing the membrane, the drop point is tricky to learn how to do it that way, but after 30 or 40 try's I finally did one right. I think the point of the tip being "dropped" is where it makes a big difference. The drop actually moves the cutting edge further down away from the tip....kinda. I like your design, it does address one of the weaknesses of the design I'm working on now. The ability to cut out the bum hole, my idea won't be suitable for that part of the cleaning, unless I make a few changes, I may look at that. But I do believe it will offer some very strong functions in skinning and processing the meat. Thanks for sharing, Rex

 

[DonL]

I go through about 6 deer and a few hogs each year. I've relied on a drop point hunter much like the one Cameron designed above. But instead of a 4 to 5 inch blade, I prefer a 3 to 4 inch blade for field dressing, skinning and quartering. I know there is no one knife "ideal" for all of these chores, so I compromise and currently use a 4 inch serrated Cutco blade. The main reason I went with the serrated blade is so I can unzip the brisket all the way to their throat. It makes field dressing easier and allows the meat to cool quicker.

As for the bum hole, I use the Butt Out tool nowadays. A good clip or straight slender blade such as a Stockman blade on a pocket knife is handy for this job if you don't have the Butt Out tool. At one time in the past, I used two knives for field dressing just for this reason.

My biggest problem now is finding the right combination of steel and blade design so that I can field dress, skin and quarter a deer without stopping to touch up the blade. And when I say skin, I mean cutting off the legs, neck and tail. I debone all my meat so there is no actual cutting through bone itself.

Good luck on your quest. I'm gonna follow this thread to see what comes out of it!!

 

[McClellan Made Blades]

Don,
I know that it's practically impossible to have a single blade excel in ALL aspects of cleaning game. I'm sure there are several folks that can get by with a single blade, but the possibility of having to stop and touch up the blade is probably certain, processing the game like you do.

As makers we know there are trade offs, the biggest one that I'm torn over now is edge hardness, if I make the Rc too hard, the chance of chipping is definite, but that will give blade performance that will leave folks around here in
awe, until they drop it, or whack a bone. I know shooting for a 60Rc is what I have in mind, but a customer that accidently dropped it would probably not be very happy. The blade shape that I have come up with isn't revolutionary, just different and looks kinda silly. Everything I've incorporated into this design has a purpose, although I still plan on making it aesthetically pretty...well...,as it can be. I know it won't be a pretty knife, it just looks too freakin weird. But if it functions like I think it will, I might be on to something, I hope so anyway, I've got some more work to do
to it before I will to reveal it. It's basically all handle with a severe drop pointed blade that's 2+inches, I'm not sure if I'll leave it like that or make it a little bit longer and take away some of the belly, btw, right now it has a huge belly to give it more cutting surface. Now if you can picture that, you can see how disproportionate it is, I'll explain the reasons behind it more when I finish it. Thanks Don, Rex

 

[JDW]

I am a deer hunter, so I have used my knives for what they are made for, and have changed some details from my earlier models, for my preference. So what I like is a drop point, 3-1/2 - 4" long, 1/8" thick at the spine, and 1"- 1-1/4" wide at the racasso, full flat ground to .020 thick behind the edge, and a secondary bevel of 20 degrees per side, this gives a strong edge to split the pelvis bone and the brisket, and still skins just fine. I don't reccomend splitting the pelvis on a large deer with a knife, but I do it with my knives to make sure that they do hold up to the task if a customer should do so, and I don't use the point for this, but the flat behind the belly and rock it through, or baton with a heavy stick. This years test knife, in CPM154, has split one pelvis and brisket, skinned 2 deer, and will still shave arm hair.

 

[McClellan Made Blades]

I am a deer hunter, so I have used my knives for what they are made for, and have changed some details from my earlier models, for my preference. So what I like is a drop point, 3-1/2 - 4" long, 1/8" thick at the spine, and 1"- 1-1/4" wide at the racasso, full flat ground to .020 thick behind the edge, and a secondary bevel of 20 degrees per side, this gives a strong edge to split the pelvis bone and the brisket, and still skins just fine. I don't reccomend splitting the pelvis on a large deer with a knife, but I do it with my knives to make sure that they do hold up to the task if a customer should do so, and I don't use the point for this, but the flat behind the belly and rock it through, or baton with a heavy stick. This years test knife, in CPM154, has split one pelvis and brisket, skinned 2 deer, and will still shave arm hair.

JDW, ya got any pics?
I'm liking the way you've described this one. Are all of your hunters made of stainless? And/Or have you done any in 10XX HC? Say 1084, maybe W-2? Curious to see how well they've held up to your way of cleaning. Thanks for posting, I'd really like to see some pics if you've got some, Rex

 

[Lagrange]

Like some of the others, I hunt deer. I like a nice 3 1/2 to 4 inch blade, between 1/8 to 5/32 thick flat ground drop point. Drop point because I dont want to use the leading point for penetration. I prefer an exadurated belly on my blades because thats where the majority of the work I do is done. Having one knife to do all the chores involved in processing a deer is a difficult proposition, but it can be done. Most of the guys I know only use one knife, but may change knives from year to year.

Eric

 

[HHH Knives]

Well first off I think its gota be small enough to carry hunting. So for me a 3 to 3 1/2 inch long blade is optimal. Although I am hunting only whitetail deer. If I were hunting a moose I would want more like a 5 inch blade. 1/8 to 3/16 thick max. Drop point blade, full height flat grinds with a blended convex edge. 4 to 4 1/2 inches of handle.. Also I dont like alot of finger grooves on my hunting knives. One either at the front or the back is all I would ever want.
I love High Carbon steel. Especially 1095. With a RC of 59/60... But HC steel does require a bit of extra care. I have also found that my knife will get a nice patina after bloodying it up a few times. which aids in rust prevention somewhat! But ya still have to treat em like a HC knife. either way!

First two are 3 1/2 inch blades, second 2 are 4 1/2 to 5 inch blades. My version of a Hunter!

 

[JDW]

Rex,
Here is a pic of the knife that I mentioned, it has a 1" wide blade 4" long from the scales.


I also use HC steels, O1, A2, D2 as well as CPM154 and 440C stainless steels. So far I have had the best edge holding from D2, with A2 not far behind it. I have also used 1095, but wanted better edge holding than what I could ever get with it.

Dale

 

[James Terrio]

Guys, let me start by saying I've never killed, field-dressed or skinned anything bigger than a squirrel. But I've talked to an awful lot folks who have, and read everything I can my hands on. From the most famous folks to wannabe's on the intrawebz. I can tell you that there are nearly as many "perfect" deer knives as there are deer hunters! From fixed blades like the Loveless drop-point and Schrade Sharpfinger, to good-old-fashioned "trapper" style folders and everything in between.

The are ONLY two things the majority of all these folks agree on. First, less is generally more. I've never had anyone tell me they wanted a blade longer than 4" for gutting, skinning and/or caping out a deer, in fact most prefer a blade closer to 3" or even less. Secondly, everyone who's cut themselves or ruined meat by fishing around for a knife that slipped out of their hand up inside the deer, wishes they'd had it on a lanyard around their wrist. So they could just pull it out safely without mucking around in there.

You might could add that some folks don't mind touching up their blade a lot, but most hunters only actually use their knife a few hours per year, and really don't want to mess with it too much. They want it good an sharp when they get it, and want it to stay that way for as long as possible.

All I can really say is make whatever works best for you, and be open to what the client wants if it's a custom order.

 

[Cameron Wilcox]

I am on the boat with James Terrio, being a relatively new hunter all I have skinned and gutted is tree squirrel. My ideas on the designs have been shaped from hunters I know and the read of, thanks to this post I have learned a lot and have some new knives to design and try to make.

 

[McClellan Made Blades]

I've got one that I've found that is both functional, small and I think it might be the best design for a combo skinner/hunter, the blade has a little belly to it and is around 4". Funny thing is I found it in my own knife drawer. I bought this one from a local maker 17 years ago and had almost forgotten it! I think the design is Canadian. I did some surfing and found one that looks almost just like the one I have, I think the company was called Grohman. The knife I have is a 1/4" think steel with a drop point blade, with a pretty thin handle, with nice sweeping lines to it. Even though it is a very small knife it still feels good in my hand! I've used this knife on a few deer a long long time ago. I'll see if I can post some pics tonight, I think this one might be the design I've been looking for, I will probably make a few changes to it, because I don't like to straight up copy any design and I like to put some of me into everything I make!

The great thing about working with hunters on hunting knives when you don't have that much input yourself is that you get ideas that they have from their experiences, couple that with your own experiences and the colaboration should work pretty well. Hopefully I'll have time tonight to take a few pics of it and get it posted tonight, Thanks Guys, Rex

 

[GHEzell]

It is hard to beat the Grohmann hunter for pure practicality.... I've always liked the 'humpback' skinner style myself, kinda like a scaled down butcher's knife, but honestly a drop point works just as well. I like them thin, 1/8" max, maybe up to 3/16" if you like to pound them through bones. A hunting knife's handle needs to be comfortable in many different positions, so no finger grooves or ergonomics gone wild... keep it simple. Depending on what is being hunted, anywhere from 3" to 5" of cutting edge, maybe bigger if you're hunting hippos or elephants. A laynard is a good idea, as is some texture to the handle (stag is perfect). False edges are not needed, purely aesthetic...

 

[GHEzell]

I should mention.... I consider a skinner and a caper specialists, while a hunter is more general purpose.

 

[Tod Lowe]

For a general all purpose hunting knife I think the Buck 119 is one of the best designs. Im not saying buck used the best materials or steel in this knife but the design serves well and I believe its bucks all time best selling knife.
When cutting out the intestine of a whitetail deer I dont see how some of the wide 3 inch blades get in and around the pelvis bone to cut it loose. A longer more narrow blade works better for me on that. I like a longer blade to get up and cut the windpipe and A longer blade is just easier to use in my opinion. A 6 inch blade is perfect for me. You can gut a deer with a 3 inch blade but why would you want to? Its easier to skin with the bigger blade also. The buck 119 can also be used to bone out a deer alot easier then a smaller knife.
Gutting , skinning and boning are the 3 things the average Joe will be doing with his hunting knife.
The buck 119 design will do all these easily and as efficiently as you could ask in a " do it all" knife.