WIP - 1st ever for me

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bdt0307

Member
Well, when I first logged on to this sight I said I had an access to 1095, well I finally found a 1/8" thick piece worth making something out of. It was blued from the manufacturer and will need some post work re-heat treating but I am pleased so far.
I didn't think to take pictures of the original blank before cutting out the shapes. This is what I have so far:
Knives008-1.jpg


What angle grind should be used for a 2 sided grind?
How far up from the edge should the grind go?
Below are some of my thoughts for an aesthetically pleasing grind, but I am a friggin' rookie. what do you think?
Knives.jpg
 
Hi Bdt0307

Is it just me - why does everyone use such Cryptic forum names???

I'm also still a rookie so I am no expert, particularly as far as grinding goes (I am still building my grinder), my first knife (http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?14706-My-1st-knife-built-from-scratch) was done with files. I think that based on the "tanto" style blade that the grinds would be chisel grinds or possibly flat grinds. I think the distance from the edge would largely depend on the thickness of your steel.

From your three pics I like the third one (in line with 2" marker)

Hope that the other forum members can add a more experienced view.

Regards
Rick
 
Thanks for the feedback Rick. The bottom 2 are mine, the others have been promised to associates that can contribute to the project. I have access to a Turret Milling machine for the initial grind. I will have the "Cutting edge" applied by my local knife shop contact who will also be the one taking care of the heat treating and procuring some G10 for the handles. Should I bolster these or leave it without?

Thoughts and advice are appreciated.

Brad

btw - your 1st knife is a beauty.
 
another Brad... awesome! :)

I'm not a big bolster-fan, so unless you are going to do them in some other sort of synth material, I say go without them...
 
Brad,
The first thing that I seen, is that the handle looks too tall. If it is that means that your scales will windup flat and thin and the knife won’t want to sit right in your hand while your using it, cutting edge will be turned to the right or left, depending on which hand you use, and not lineup with you.
Now that’s just me.

Second is that you’ll want your grind line just a hair higher than the point, on this style blade with the false edge, or your point will be blunt.

Third is the three with the “cups” for a thumb rest is not comfortable.

Now this is just my opinion and take it or leave it as you will. These are just SOME of the mistakes that I have made before I found makers in my area and this form. Some of the best advice that I have got was to draw the knife to size then do all of the changes before you pick up a piece of steel.

Have fun with it.

Todd
 
Deltashooter said:
Brad,
The first thing that I seen, is that the handle looks too tall. If it is that means that your scales will windup flat and thin and the knife won’t want to sit right in your hand while your using it, cutting edge will be turned to the right or left, depending on which hand you use, and not lineup with you.
Now that’s just me.

Second is that you’ll want your grind line just a hair higher than the point, on this style blade with the false edge, or your point will be blunt.

Third is the three with the “cups” for a thumb rest is not comfortable.

Now this is just my opinion and take it or leave it as you will. These are just SOME of the mistakes that I have made before I found makers in my area and this form. Some of the best advice that I have got was to draw the knife to size then do all of the changes before you pick up a piece of steel.

Have fun with it.

Todd
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input, I had already decided against the "cups". Really appreciate the heads-up about the grind near the point. This is the type of feedback I want and desperately need at this point.

Hey BRad704, I have also decided against bolsters.

Brad
 
I would work the bevels higher up one the blades, more like you had the sketched out on your patterns. Just change the angle that you hold the files at to be a little closer to the flats and draw file rather than push file. Mark where you want the bevels to end up at on the blade and slowly cut the bevels to that point without changing where the edge now is. Clamp the blank flat on a board secured to a work surface to give the blade some backing and to prevent you from running your hand into the point of the blade. A block of wood clamped at a right angle to the blade at the plunge line will help prevent over running it.

Doug Lester
 
Update:
Have been so busy with running business haven't had a lot of time for hobby. Have sent blades to Heat treat should have them back this week hopefully, then I can start on handles and sheaths.

btw
Have received a free piece of 1/4" x 1-1/2"x 24" 440C Stainless with certs from my knife gifting Steel salesman. I believe he will get something special out of this piece of steel.

Brad
 
Last edited:
I have some 1095 that will need h.t. soon. Where did you send you blades off to?
 
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