Working with Dymondwood and similar laminates

[Frank Hunter]

Here's some first hand information on working with Dymondwood and similar laminates. This might apply to some makers but not all as it's not a high-value material but is very consistent and durable. Not to mention inexpensive for the color range available. A few things I've found -

Your handle pin holes will end up smaller than the drilled size. It's more noticeable in this material than other woods I've found for this so far, I don't know why the holes shrink so badly in this stuff but they do. A 1/4" bit leaves a hole that in no way will fit a 1/4" pin like the steel tang would. I use either a round rasp to slightly open it up or you can use a 9/32 bit on the scales. It also will occasionally shrink after installation and leave a slight amount of the tang proud of the finished surface, I've noticed this in the "Walnut" but not the "Silver/Black". Also, even though requiring no oil or polish aside from green or pink compound on a buffing wheel, it will burn yellow and brown if you get it too hot.

The dust is nasty and percolates a good 30 feet from the grinding area and will give you Technicolor boogers matching the current color you're working if you don't use a respirator, it seems to get around a dust mask to a greater extent than the natural materials. I haven't had my grinding bin catch fire but it will smoke and probably should be treated as much of a fire hazard as regular wood dust.

Any other points or specific thoughts about this stuff?

 

[Shane Wink]

I was a bowyer for several years till an allergic reaction from some African teak but when I was building them I used dymonnd wood and stratbond for building risers. The reason the the hole gets smaller is the wood swells from the heat. Dymonnd wood and strata bond are all trade names for an action wood laminate. The action wood was once made from maple but now is made of birch. It is also quite brittle in comparison and dymond wood has been the most brittle I have used.

It good wood and a cheap alternative as mentioned before. If I wanted to use any of the lamanates I would purchase riser blacks though a bowyer supply if you are able to resaw the billets. Ruttland also has 4x8 sheets available.

 

[Frank Hunter]

Interesting you mention the Actionwood and bowyers, Shane. I just had a gentleman down at my shop today receive two knives for promotional purposes for the Traditional Bowhunters of Montana. We spoke about the laminates, Actionwood scrap for knife handles and the different laminates made by Rutland. Thanks for the further details...I wouldn't have guessed it to be birch. I do notice it's brittle at times...I had a scale split across the grain once after I overheated a pin. Isn't Stratabond the gunstock grade?

 

[SHOKR]

Very interesting, thanks for sharing

I bought two pieces of dymondwood to try so heads up about it was great

 

[Wayne Coe]

Years ago I make a knife (actually my first) and used Diamond Wood. When I installed the pins the wood split (minimally). Then I realized that unlike plywood all the layers of grain run in the same direction. Since then I have drilled the holes with multiple passes with the drill then deburred the pins on the grinder. If you cut the pins with pliers they will flaten the cut, enlarging it a bit.

 

[Shane Wink]

Frank they are all just trade names for a wood laminate that uses a high heat resin to glue the layers up. There have been a couple other names that are no longer around. As far as I am aware you can use any of them to make a stock from. This is from rutlands and is dymonnd wood. I inleted the stock for a detachable magazine as when I purchased the stock it was setup for blind mag only. I opened the channel for the barrel and opened the thumbhole to fit my hand as well as fit the comb to my body. Bedded and floated by me as well. Lots of little details and wood removed for different reasons but the stuff is very strong. Strata bond is used as well for gunstocks and its available in a different layer thickness I think.

 

[Frank Hunter]

Very nice, Shane! I've been thinking about making a grip and forend for my T/C Encore and a matching hunting knife. Back in the day I think it was Pakkawood, I remember seeing that on some of the Gil Hibben pieces out of Sportsman's Guide back in the 90's.

 

[Taz575]

A #30 drill bit gives a nice fit with 1/8" pin material, #12 bit for 3/16". I am trying a 6.4mm and F bits for 1/4" thick pins, but I don't use them that much. I do this with all materials, wood, stabilized wood, dymondwood, Micarta, and my own laminates.

 

[Knifemaker.ca]

Just a caution that they are not all the same. For instance Spectraply by Cousineau is very pretty, but is not acrylic impregnated. I also had some samples sent to me from Pakistan that were neither impregnated nor was the wood quality very good. I've been looking because the quality at RutPLy has been deteriorating in recent years, with more cracks and some surface 'bilstering' from aging pressure plates. Still the best I've found though - just lots more waste.

 

[Frank Hunter]

KnifeMaker - I have noticed some surface inconsistencies this last few months too. Sometimes a big check at one end of a piece and that "blistered" delamination at the first layer. I agree at the overall worth of the product, I've matched a few guys knife handles to their laminate gunstocks.

 

[Shane Wink]

I have had two risers develop cracks in places not caused by stress. After talking to another well known professional bowyer friend (Kirk Lavendar) he told me he wont use it any longer as he too has had issue with cracks forming later. I am not sure if its from moisture that was trapped in the wood when made or just what. I use a professional conversion varnish (fullerplast) product to fill, coat and seal the bow so I know its not from exposure to the elements that is causing it. I use it on handles as well.