I'd kill for a place where I could shoot in my back yard!
My forge build.....WIP......it's going to take a while!
- Thread starter jaxxas
- Start date
I'd kill for a place where I could shoot in my back yard!
Good point Steve, yet another something I have overlooked! I'll get them on order....
Thank you!
Thanks Ken!
Yeah the HOA is a major pain. Seems I spend more time working around it then doing what I want. Maybe some day!?
I truly hope they don't encroach on your ability to shoot in your backyard! It's a lot harder to lose a freedom than to never have it.
Agreed on the CO detectors, searching Amazon now!
Bruce McLeish
Well-Known Member
My back yard consists of a little more than 2 million acres of the Klamath national forest. Our town consists of about 180 people. I invite you to come up for a visit. Directions are : hiway 10 west. Then hiway 5 north. Just short of the oregon border , turn left on hiway 96 west. Come on down the Klamath river for about 50 miles. Ask anyone where we live and you'll be here. Bring whatever you want to shoot. If you come during deer season, I 'll take you out in our beautiful mountains and see if we can find you some venison.
Only 2 million acres?
Sounds perfect! Thank you for the invite, I haven't actually hunted since I was in my 20's, a looong time ago. I'm not really up on California gun laws but I think much of what I have isn't legal in Cally!?Got the CO detectors ordered! One more thing off the list.
I finished the end pieces to the hood frame, got it all welded up on the inside, and ground off the top side welds for a smooth fit for the 16 ga sheet metal. Drilled and tapped 28 - 8-32 holes for mounting the sheet metal on the sides of the hood. Also while I had the hood frame pretty much finished I made a couple of cardboard templates for the end cap's sheet metal. I think I will probably do a bit of an awning opening over the forge itself.
Then I got the hood re-installed in the forge cart frame. Went back in a bit tighter than it came out! But I was able to get all (8) the bolt holes lined up. I have some SS steel 8-32 machine screws coming, I don't want to be using galvanized.
So like many things a thought occurred to me that I have no answers for but could I possibly have too much exhaust flow/pressure that venturi burners might not work?
Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the sheet metal cut, possibly drilled and secured in place, but first I have to get my swamp cooler up and running, it's supposed to hit 100° F come Sunday! Maybe if I need parts I'll go to Lowes and also pick up my 8" rigid ducting.
I finished the end pieces to the hood frame, got it all welded up on the inside, and ground off the top side welds for a smooth fit for the 16 ga sheet metal. Drilled and tapped 28 - 8-32 holes for mounting the sheet metal on the sides of the hood. Also while I had the hood frame pretty much finished I made a couple of cardboard templates for the end cap's sheet metal. I think I will probably do a bit of an awning opening over the forge itself.
Then I got the hood re-installed in the forge cart frame. Went back in a bit tighter than it came out! But I was able to get all (8) the bolt holes lined up. I have some SS steel 8-32 machine screws coming, I don't want to be using galvanized.
So like many things a thought occurred to me that I have no answers for but could I possibly have too much exhaust flow/pressure that venturi burners might not work?
Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the sheet metal cut, possibly drilled and secured in place, but first I have to get my swamp cooler up and running, it's supposed to hit 100° F come Sunday! Maybe if I need parts I'll go to Lowes and also pick up my 8" rigid ducting.
I had not even considered that aspect. "IF" it does seem to give a problem just put a fan over the burners blowing on them. Sorta of a mini-blower setup?I possibly have too much exhaust flow/pressure that venturi burners might not work?
Well I didn't get near as much done as I thought I would. Did get the swamp cooler fired up though. It's a cool 73° F inside, something like 95° F outside. Didn't need any additional swamp cooler parts so I still need to make a run to buy the 8" rigid duct at some point.
Basically I got all or most of the sheet metal cut. Here are the sides of the exhaust hood in place though not drilled and screwed down.
And then here are the end caps cut out and I made a collar for bolting the exhaust outlet to the rear end cap.
Cutting sheet metal sure is messy.....
Hopefully tomorrow I can get all these parts mounted in place and I can start working on the blower and motor.
Basically I got all or most of the sheet metal cut. Here are the sides of the exhaust hood in place though not drilled and screwed down.
And then here are the end caps cut out and I made a collar for bolting the exhaust outlet to the rear end cap.
Cutting sheet metal sure is messy.....
Hopefully tomorrow I can get all these parts mounted in place and I can start working on the blower and motor.
Once again, didn't get enough done, getting slow in my old age I guess.
First I drilled and bolted the sides of the exhaust hood on.....
Then I prepped the rear cap and got it bolted on.....
Then mounted the actual exhaust flange fitting which has been stripped of the zinc.....
Here's a shot from the inside.....
Still have the front cap to go and I need to pick up the straight ducting, hopefully tomorrow as I need to get that soaking in vinegar.
First I drilled and bolted the sides of the exhaust hood on.....
Then I prepped the rear cap and got it bolted on.....
Then mounted the actual exhaust flange fitting which has been stripped of the zinc.....
Here's a shot from the inside.....
Still have the front cap to go and I need to pick up the straight ducting, hopefully tomorrow as I need to get that soaking in vinegar.
That's really looking good. Do you think you actually need a front cap? The vent fan is going to setup an air flow pulling from front to rear. Depending on how much the front cap interferes with view of forge I might hold off and try without front and see if it works ok. If not, then no problem to add later.
You've got that looking good and I can't imagine it not working.
You've got that looking good and I can't imagine it not working.
Thanks Ken!
I think I do need the front cap. I plan to have a 3" or so awning over the front to improve the view. And It's almost there.....
Well I was busy today still not a lot accomplished IMO. I got the 8" HVAC duct on order at Lowe's, need to pick it up tomorrow.
Got the front end cap finished up and mounted....
Then I made the 56c face adapter for the motor. I made it out of 1/4" scrap so it will probably need trimmed up some. First I need to figure out my approach to the whole squirrel cage enclosure. I'll probably be scratching my head awhile over that! I'll need some kind of legs on this frame to keep the motor off the floor a couple inches or so?...... (maybe just some heavy bolts if I need it for levelers?)
Here's the cage and the motor together...
Here's a pic of the clearance I'm working with. May need to shorten those bolts? Maybe I can get cap screws and use them to bolt the bottom side of the squirrel cage enclosure to the the motor using the 56c face bolts? So many questions....
Tomorrow I'll pick up my 8" exhaust tube and get it in vinegar. I can only strip about 12" of zinc given my bucket size, (glad I saved the vinegar from the previous zinc stripping!) if I need to strip more than 12" I may need to get some muriatic acid and paint it on for an hour or so. I guess I only really need to worry about the exterior of the tube as the inside will be vented!? Probably harm somebody outside though.....
Got the front end cap finished up and mounted....
Then I made the 56c face adapter for the motor. I made it out of 1/4" scrap so it will probably need trimmed up some. First I need to figure out my approach to the whole squirrel cage enclosure. I'll probably be scratching my head awhile over that! I'll need some kind of legs on this frame to keep the motor off the floor a couple inches or so?...... (maybe just some heavy bolts if I need it for levelers?)
Here's the cage and the motor together...
Here's a pic of the clearance I'm working with. May need to shorten those bolts? Maybe I can get cap screws and use them to bolt the bottom side of the squirrel cage enclosure to the the motor using the 56c face bolts? So many questions....
Tomorrow I'll pick up my 8" exhaust tube and get it in vinegar. I can only strip about 12" of zinc given my bucket size, (glad I saved the vinegar from the previous zinc stripping!) if I need to strip more than 12" I may need to get some muriatic acid and paint it on for an hour or so. I guess I only really need to worry about the exterior of the tube as the inside will be vented!? Probably harm somebody outside though.....
Seems like nothing really done today. Spent a bunch of time trying to figure out the right design for the blower chamber. Done a bunch of different drawings and while I'm sure I still have the 'wrong' design I think this should work OK.
Tomorrow I'll try to get the scroll shape cut out of 3/4" plywood so I can bend the scroll to support the sides of the blower/
Tomorrow I'll try to get the scroll shape cut out of 3/4" plywood so I can bend the scroll to support the sides of the blower/
Busy day, might not look it but I did a lot today.
First I made a motor mount and wired up the motor, just had to make sure it was rotating the right way. Then the metric machine screws for the cover for the connections were just barely in place. They were too short and wouldn't tighten up. Luckily I had a few M5 x .8 on hand.
Got the motor cranking and it really blows.....
drive.google.com
Then on to the blower box scroll thingy. First I cut a couple of 1"x16 ga strips to use to form the scroll.
Then this part took me quite awhile. The scroll form needed to be held in the same place whether I was forming the top side or bottom side scroll. So in these next couple of pics you can see 2 sheets of 16 ga and 1 sheet of nearly 1" thick plywood (I scabbed it together) all located by the 56C face mounting holes. I still need to cut the shape of the scroll in the plywood. The plan is to tack weld the 1" x 16 ga metal to the bottom (or top) by forming it along the wooden form. Then vice-versa. Afterwards I think I'll wrap the space between the top and bottom steel with a couple layers of 22 ga galvanized flashing.
That was my day. Tomorrow I cut the wooden scroll form and maybe form some scrolls.
First I made a motor mount and wired up the motor, just had to make sure it was rotating the right way. Then the metric machine screws for the cover for the connections were just barely in place. They were too short and wouldn't tighten up. Luckily I had a few M5 x .8 on hand.
Got the motor cranking and it really blows.....
blower motor.mp4
drive.google.com
Then on to the blower box scroll thingy. First I cut a couple of 1"x16 ga strips to use to form the scroll.
Then this part took me quite awhile. The scroll form needed to be held in the same place whether I was forming the top side or bottom side scroll. So in these next couple of pics you can see 2 sheets of 16 ga and 1 sheet of nearly 1" thick plywood (I scabbed it together) all located by the 56C face mounting holes. I still need to cut the shape of the scroll in the plywood. The plan is to tack weld the 1" x 16 ga metal to the bottom (or top) by forming it along the wooden form. Then vice-versa. Afterwards I think I'll wrap the space between the top and bottom steel with a couple layers of 22 ga galvanized flashing.
That was my day. Tomorrow I cut the wooden scroll form and maybe form some scrolls.
Didn't get in much shop time today but I think I got quite a bit accomplished.
First I cut out the scroll form. And of course I got stabbed while changing from a metal saw blade on the vertical bandsaw to a wood saw blade, you know those wood blades have some aggressive teeth. Not sure why I can't remember the welding gloves when I do that......
Then I got the 1' x 16 gauge sheet metal clamped to the form. Usually it seems I never have enough clamps but today it worked out....
All tack welded in....
Then I did it all over again for the other side. Thankfully it worked out, I was really sweating I had something turned about the wrong way....
Then I did a brief mock up to be sure the alignment was all working out.....
Tomorrow I will need to weld up the inside of the scroll and clean up the outside of the scroll as that is where the sheet metal will be pop riveted to. Then I need to cut a few (at least 4-8) lengths of small diameter pipe to act as spacers to bolt through with some 1/4" all thread to lock the 2 halves of the scroll outsides together. Kinda of thinking the overall thickness will be right about 7.25". And I will have to cut the sheet metal to go between the two halves.
On another note, the squirrel cage while working great is a little disturbing with it's fairly robust rotation. No complaints so far but it has a place for an additional set screw on it's hub but they only supplied a single set screw. And of course it's a 3/8 x 24 set screw and I want an additional set screw, but of course I only have some 3/8 x 16 set screws on hand! I placed an order for 'some' 3/8 x 24 set screws.
I finished up in the shop a bit early today. One it's starting to get warm in the shop and two I'm on kitchen detail today. Not that I mind, I like cooking. Today we're making fairly authentic homemade re-fried beans for burritos and tostadas tonight.
First I cut out the scroll form. And of course I got stabbed while changing from a metal saw blade on the vertical bandsaw to a wood saw blade, you know those wood blades have some aggressive teeth. Not sure why I can't remember the welding gloves when I do that......
Then I got the 1' x 16 gauge sheet metal clamped to the form. Usually it seems I never have enough clamps but today it worked out....
All tack welded in....
Then I did it all over again for the other side. Thankfully it worked out, I was really sweating I had something turned about the wrong way....
Then I did a brief mock up to be sure the alignment was all working out.....
Tomorrow I will need to weld up the inside of the scroll and clean up the outside of the scroll as that is where the sheet metal will be pop riveted to. Then I need to cut a few (at least 4-8) lengths of small diameter pipe to act as spacers to bolt through with some 1/4" all thread to lock the 2 halves of the scroll outsides together. Kinda of thinking the overall thickness will be right about 7.25". And I will have to cut the sheet metal to go between the two halves.
On another note, the squirrel cage while working great is a little disturbing with it's fairly robust rotation. No complaints so far but it has a place for an additional set screw on it's hub but they only supplied a single set screw. And of course it's a 3/8 x 24 set screw and I want an additional set screw, but of course I only have some 3/8 x 16 set screws on hand! I placed an order for 'some' 3/8 x 24 set screws.
I finished up in the shop a bit early today. One it's starting to get warm in the shop and two I'm on kitchen detail today. Not that I mind, I like cooking. Today we're making fairly authentic homemade re-fried beans for burritos and tostadas tonight.