this http://www.dewalt.com/tools/metalworking-band-saws-dw328.aspx is the saw I have. has about a two inch deeper throat than the others. lotsa use the last four years 0 problems.
one thing to remember is that Flux is not glue. If you have flat clean pieces of steel you do not need a lot of flux just enough to cover the billet. I use about a tablespoon full. too much flux can be as bad as not enough and can actually make it easier to trap flux in a billet. the simple way...
Hey Shane the easy way is to jst drill the holes one size or more over sized. glue the scales on and then drill the holes for the pins. the holes in the tang don't have to fit tight on the pin.
According to the craft of the japanese sword the sunobe should be about 90 percent of the blade length. the width and thickness of the sunobe adds up to the final width of the blade, and about 10% of the length in your case an inch wide and 1/4 inch thick for a finished blade that is 1 1/4...
starting with too thin of a core you run the risk of having the soft steel suck all the carbom out of it before you get the blade forged. If you are not very familiar with forge welding Getting a good weld with wrought is tough and I personally have more trouble with A36 than wrought. 1018 has...
I hope this is a miss print. If you can get some 1018 as opposed to the a36 your thicknesses are ok set the weld and then reheat and go over the bar again then start drawing the bar.
Hiya Keith,
Just checked in here after a bit and see a face that like me hasn't been around for awhile. Nice lookin knife. See you at blade unless your comin over with "big Bad" himself.
reread everything that Ed posted above AND DO IT. cable is in my opinion the biggest wast of tim in knifemaking. Of couse I use it at times but only if I want to waste time or have some specific thing for it. It is actually easier to weld stainless than it is to get good results with cable. Yes...