Opinions on kilns?...

Kev

Well-Known Member
From what I can gather, pottery kilns can work for heat treating knives, but that’s as much as I know. Do any modifications have to be made? What is the difference between a kiln and a purpose built heat treat oven?
I’m asking because I have found a dozen or more used, but like new, kilns in my area for 25% of what a new oven would cost.
Any and all advice, or admonishments welcome.
 
I am looking in the same direction. I know many makers use kilns and they surely can be bought cheaper. I plan to immediately add a high temp digital read thermometer to mine, when I get it. The only other thing I would suggest (I do not have mine yet) is just make sure you can still get replacement elements (or whatever they are called) and parts for the model you are buying. Some older kilns are not supported by the makers. I have found a few that look brand new for like $200.
 
This is just my opinion, but I would pass on a pottery Kiln. for me anyway the footprint of one of those takes up to much room. and being that their access is from the top it seems like you would loose a lot of heat when opening it, even for a couple of seconds, which could also lead to a free eyebrow trimming. I believe when their used for pottery their allowed to cool down before opening.
 
I was offered one for free years ago and turned it down, thinking about it now I should have taken it just to debone it for the bricks.
 
I got a pottery kiln for a good price just for the fire brick. I'm still trying to get the heating elements to "chooch".


Jake
 
I should have been more specific I am looking for a front loading Kiln. Not as common as the top loaders but they are out there.

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I've often seen knifemakers use pottery kilns. Their biggest drawback is often the controller on pottery kilns, and the level of accuracy they provide. The above image is a typical analog controller, with analog readout. They are usable, but it generally requires a good bit of experimenting with the particular oven to figure out the set point versus actual temp. That can be a long and frustrating process, but I know a number of individuals who have made it work well for them.
 
if it is big enough for your knives and gets hot enough, a front load kiln will work just fine. the last time I looked at new kilns vs "knife furnace", same features, same controllers, same price per cubic foot. you can sometimes find a deal on a kiln, if big enough and hot enough,get it. a big old top load kiln can work if you want to spend the time and money making them easier to load and unload.
 
big old top load kiln can work if you want to spend the time and money making them easier to load and unload.

Out of curiosity, how would you make a top loader easier to load and unload? I will have to admit the thought of reaching over a 1400 degree top loader is keeping me from buying one. I know people use them for HT but I am not aware of how they are modified.
 
i have seen folks write about cutting a slot in the top with a door so blades go in and out thru a slot. unless you are getting a kiln for next to nothing, do not know if it is worth the work. goes back to how well does the kiln heat and how even is the heat.
 
I guess that would work but I really do not want a large kiln, there again because of the footprint although I have seen people HT swords in a large top loader and you cannot do that in a smaller one. The front loaders seem to be smaller most of the time.
 
I made my first few knives in a free, top loading, pottery kiln with a manual temp control. It works, but sucks too. You need some long tongs to reach down in there or else you'll smoke your gloves! I put a thermocouple in mine and read the temp with a fluke multimeter. I had to stay right there and babysit it, but I could control the temp within 5 or 10 degrees once it was settled in. I've since bought an Evenheat which is awesome! Its doable, just not preferable. Heres a video where I was using it.
 
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