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Finished! Added a couple wooden spacers to get rid of the gap mentioned earlier. It is on it's way to CA right now.

Not A2, but have ground D2 to pretty much final dimension .015 to .010? (Can't remember) and quenched with plates and did not have trouble with warping or decarb. However, I have almost never had trouble with warping for one reason or another, so it may not work the same for you.

Mind sharing what the handle on that one is made of? Looks good!

Honestly, that knife looks awesome to me! I can't wait till I can make one on par with it.

On a knife I'd sell I would definitely want some sort of mechanical hold, ideally peened pins with epoxy. However, sometimes we go way overboard in sticking handles on a blade (which I'm not saying is a bad thing). I believe a knifemaker friend of mine has a garden knife he made for himself that...

There are videos by Boss dog (i think) and Simple Little Life on break in/use that might be helpful. I have a gritless one that I loaded up with green compound, but I don't like it as much for a final finish as a scotchbright belt, partly because the scotchbright hides my mistakes while the cork...

If nothing is broke, don't fix it :) At least IMHO and I don't think the leather would form well after having a coat put on it.

Ground and finished the clip, etched my makes mark, and finished the blade. Made a spacer that fits up to the guard, and rear bolsters. The rear bolsters are peened on and the guard and spacer were fit with alignment pins, driven up into place, and jb welded. The tips of the frame have nubs...

Thanks!

Nice! Looks like you got a really good curve for the finger stop, mind sharing how you did it? (files, small wheel?) Thanks!

https://knifedogs.com/threads/profile-perimeter-finishing-on-etched-blade-question.52354/#post-420892 Recent thread on this topic.

Ok, still trying to wrap my mind around how you can grind a bevel without the line shifting down. Thanks Edit: Think I figured it out. The reason the grind line for the false edge can come out at the tip is because the main bevels thin the tip.

Alrighty, got to ask a question. The tip of the spine would not be ground to sharp right, because otherwise you would get the clip grind line not meeting up with the point? Hope that makes sense. So if that is true, how thick do you leave the clip at the point? Thanks!

At a rough 400 grit handsanding on the blade, will go up to 600 and grind in the swedge. Fit up the guard with 416ss and am working with the client on handle material, though we are a ways from that point. We may add back bolsters, and if we did, do you think it would look odd to make them of...

https://knifedogs.com/threads/sweeping-plunge-line-grind-line.52197/#post-418655 Oldknife said that he used the mill for grinding in the plunge, maybe he could help you. Good luck!

Also, I've heard that walking any sort of distance to your quench will bring you perhaps below critical temp, which could be causing your problems. That is not as much of a problem with air cooling steels as they need to be hardened slower, I think as a general rule.

To expound on what tkroenlein said. If you've only done stainless you might not know that carbon steels will often need to be heat cycled of some sort (annealing, normalizing, thermal cycles, etc.) before hardening, even if you haven't forged them, which is stuff I never do with SS (discounting...

That is awesome, but no, don't even own a knife that old.

Thanks Smallshop!