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Hello Knifedogs, I've often thought about how to explain knife things to non-knife people. You can give someone a care and maintenance instructions paper when they buy a knife, but this only covers that one aspect. They can go and Google every question they have, but this is not always helpful...

Wouldn't hitting the blade after heat treat with a carbide hammer introduce stresses into the steel?

I wouldn't put a radius on my wheel. Just let the belt hang over 5/16 or so and push your plunges up against that. Maybe you've already tried that, but I would do that first.

Thanks, I do have nanocad, just haven't really used it and am presently incapable of sending off a file that will be used to blank out my summer's work. I would like to get good enough at it to do so, but am unsure whether I will be able to or not, again, probably rushing things. I'll be heat...

Thanks for the offer, I may take you up on it.

Thank you.

So, if the holes are too large, probably doesn't matter. If too small, I could either drill out the blank or take a few swipes on the four foot rod of pinstock with sandpaper. Didn't know whether spotting would be cheaper than cutting the whole hole, I really don't know anything about water...

Thank you, I will have to ask a friend if he can do that for me. Do you know what tolerances the pin holes would hold? I'll be using 3/32 pinstock which really doesn't take to long to drill out, esp. once spotted I would think.

Love my 2HP grinder, but I can stall it when roughing or grinding blades on the platen. A glass platen might help, though.

I'm about to do a run of a lot (for me) of 8in chef knives (maybe 50) this summer before I head out of state to college. I'm thinking about using NJ steel barons water jet service. I'm not familiar enough with CAD to send them a dxf file, so am planning on sending them a sketch and pattern...

You've got gaps in between the handle and the tang! ;) Looks great!

How are you sharpening? I'm thinking you may be putting more pressure or time on that one area than the rest of the edge while sharpening. I think I used to get that "recurve" unintentionally when sharpening with the 1x30.

Thank you!

These are from February and March. I just finished the last three. The very last has some really cool, I guess vintage Nat. Micarta from a stick a friend gave me.

Awesome work! Nice pictures, too.

I would think apple would be a fine wood, but haven't used it myself. Try it! I didn't mean to steer you off of Oak; I've made a handful of knives with oak and it is a good wood. You will know when you need to start using exotic or highly figured woods.

Yes, Oak is ok. It isn't the best wood, (usually pretty plain and porous) but oak has been used for knife handles for a long time.

Ken nailed it. Did you break these pre or post tempering?

Are they still working well? My only concerns would be whether they have grit in them that would scratch the blade or they weren't "cutting".

Thanks for the replies! I'll put a sheet over it, coat it with an oil/wax, and see how that goes.