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Doug I made the crushed W's, forged it out into a bar 1 1/2 wide by about 18 inches long and then used my raindrop dies to put the divots in the billet and then ground to the finished size. Instead of getting concentric circles you get little PAC-Mans.

1080 /15N20 crushed W's in a raindrop pattern by maker, Maple burl with stainless fittings

I have been using VSM belts for years and they will out last the closest competitor at least 2:1. If you want to hog off steel or get that iron wood handle to a rough shape the 36 grit is terrific. I have not tried their new Actirox because I still have a good supply of the Ceramic XK880 to use up.

Here is what I use. At one time I used a shop vac on the end of my grinder ,but started two of them on fire and that gets real exciting as they act like forge with a blower. So now I hook a vac up to a 5 gallon steel pail with a deflector in it. I use an old furnace blower with a filter on it...

All done, sheaths made and sharpened ready for hunting season.

Is that a wooden stand that the press and oil reservoir are sitting on ? You might want to consider putting a metal top on it so it does not catch on fire from the hot scale that comes off the billet.

52100 core with 420SS sides, Ironwood handle with stainless fittings

No, that handle cavity is filled with epoxy it will never come apart.

Walrus tusk with and Ebony insert, stainless fitting, 1080 / 15N20 stretched crushed W's pattern.

It grows in Russia and Finland. I got mine from a fellow that knows a Russian knife maker.

Blade forged from 1080 / 15N20 ,crushed W's pattern, then stretched. Masur Birch handle with stainless fittings.

Any time I am using horn or bone I always opt for a hidden tang knife. It seems every time I used slabs or scales on a full tang blade they always shrunk ,even when stabilized and I hate that feel on a knife handle.

Here are a couple I did with Sea Cow. Like any bone or horn if you grind to deep and hit the marrow you are in trouble. I ground the handle to shape, applied a coat of CA glue to fill any small pores ground it off and buffed.

Opaul I have made some curved dies for my pin press and that is how I form the SS guards and other pieces.

420 SS / 52100 San Mai with stainless fittings and Maple burl handle.

Buffers are the most dangerous piece of equipment in the shop. I took a blade in the guts from a buffer a couple of years ago and it was not a pleasant experience. A fellow I know got a breast plate made of titanium from a Army surplus store used by helicopter gunners. It is nice and lite and...

I have been using Fluid Film for years I also use it on my guns. It is one of the best lubricants and anti rust oils I have found.

I could not make a quality knife without my felt platten. ( most important tool in my shop ) I do not use it for grinding blades but for handles and accessories like guards and butt caps. It softens the edges and makes the lines flow together. Try one you will love it. I also use it when I have...

1080 /15N20 steel by maker,Turkish Walnut handle with stainless fittings

Try IMG Electromark in Utica, NY They make a number of enchants and are great to deal with. http://www.img-electromark.com/catalog/electrolytes-cleaners/ For stainless I use the Electrolyte 94