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Thanks soo much

i usually just aim for the lowest hardness that wont cause it to get bent, and in my case keep the stainless knife steel stainless... lowest hardness, because i want the knife edge to stand up better in a knife to fork contact situation.

you twist the joint open when you cut it, it should only cut tendons and a little cartilage, soft ribs maybe. but he want honetsuke or grasuki, as mentioned above, that looks like a western grind deba... a western grind deba is a fine choice too... but the bevel is ground more obtuse so the...

cleaver / chopper---> flatter belly, unless you just like the shape and will use it as a normal chef's knife, minus the tip for detail work... ask him to take a look at Bunka, it is kinda a blend between a nakiri and a gyuto, which ends up being very suitable for general purpose work and light...

HDR is for making high contrast images fit into the dynamic range of a camera sensor, which is less than excellent film of yore... HDR is for making the high contrast images fit into the dynamic range of a sensor... which is less than some film of yesteryear... in other words, you take three...

tsk tsk... but but what about stainless wootz???

amen... i have to add, my experience is that high carbide volume steels need more hardness, before you can get a really nice edge... they are a bear to remove steel, regardless of their hardness...

Thanks!

I welded two thin gauge angle iron pieces parallel to each other about 5" apart and cut narrow v-slots in them with a thin angle grinder blade. the blade spans both and is supported only by points on the slots. the rack stays in and i use gloves to place blades in the heated oven... tc also...

Kevin, I am intrigued by that... I thought the +/- .8C one would use around 1490F-1500F? I also believe there are 2 grades that are often used interchangeably for 80crv2 - which may be where my confusion comes from

0.008" - 0.015" just behind the edge, usually aroun 0.1" behind the edge...

that is a nice design... execution too....

the requirement for more pressure and speed goes up as you go lower in grit i find... i literally can't apply enough pressure to make full ceramic 36 grit work well on hardened high wear steel... so i use 60 and 80 grit at a fairly low speed, with as much pressure as i can find. then i clean the...

I use convex grinds for kitchen knives and competition cutters, because food release and edge stability... and what you want to achieve varies a lot... So in order to not be bound by how fast the grinder runs, what grit how hard the belt backing, and how tight the belt tension is, i put in a...

wouldnt tempering it at 650C or 1300F do? air cool...?

i tried tapmatic for steel and hated it... will try Kevin's mix...

One thing alluded to above, but not expressly stated... if you dont have it in the oven for long enough, the steel is not austenitized fully, now for 1080, it is unlikely to be an issue - the moment the steel is up to temperature... but it is really possible, unless the thermocouple sits against...

Well I am necro threading today, the Scimitar is flat near the heel of the blade, that is for chopping / cleaving, so the thicker stock and the extra height is for strength and knuckle space, it is not a heavy cleaver, but must withstand a little torgue going through joints... and also a bit of...

And i am up to date on some images... i need to get my butt into gear though, this is too few...

Thank you!