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Once you stop caring how the bevel looks and being so particular about angles. Just sharpened 2 of my favorite kitchen knives from not even scraping hair to treetopping sharpness in about 5 minutes, using just a King 4000 grit water stone. It's as easy as scrubbing the bevels to get them to...

You can also check youtube for Saltydog and knives. He's a chef and sharpens his to the point they'll fall into a tomato under their own weight.

I have a design for a large outdoor knife, but the steel is already hardened, so I have to use a stick tang. We'll see how it works. Those compression nuts are a good idea.

The heavier duty outdoor type knives I've seen have metal ferrules, some cut so a finger guard can be bent out to one side. This seems pretty stout to me, but I've never used one. I was thinking of using copper for a ferrule for strength and aesthetic reasons. Any issues with copper on a...

I really like the look of Wa style handles. I do wonder how durable they are. Realistically, they are on kitchen knives typically, which don't get the beating outdoor knives do. However, were one to want to use them for say a heavy use butchering knife, how durable are they, and what...

Some forums have rules about directing questions to individuals, so hopefully this isn't one of them. My question is for Mr. Caffrey. What results do you get from the spectrographic testing that make you a believer in triple quenching?

Thats good news. I was wondering what angle to use on my kitchen knife. Its chisel ground A2 at 61 HRc. I'll start at 20 and work down from there.

Has anyone tried sharpening angles less than 10 degrees on EDC type knives? I rebeveled a 2 blade trapper clip blade to about 7 dps (degrees per side) and then added a microbevel at just under 10 dps, using a 220/1000 King combo water stone. So far, it's held up pretty well. I like the 1k...

Like I said, if you're having fun, then have at it. The magnetism thing is a bit odd. I'd send it out just for that, since there's no way I'd be able to make a reasonable guess after seeing that happen.

The recipe I am going to use is as follows: Preheat as recommended Austenize at 1725-1750 for 1/2 hour at temperature Air quench to room temperature Double temper at 400-425 one hour each temper, cooling to room temperature in between, preferably by quenching in water. I don't...

Little to no spark leans toward stainless of some sort, but you probably already knew that. Real tests are available for as little as $50. If you are doing this and expect to get paid for it, I'd say it's worth it to send it out. After all the cutting of coupons, heating, quenching, testing...

Just an observation about the CPM steels. These steels tend to be highly alloyed, air hardening, and have high carbide volumes, and have carbon contents comparable to cast irons. These traits do not lend themselves to hand forging. Since there is so much carbon and carbide formers, carbides...

Im hoping thats the case here. I went over the flats w/ 220 grit paper and the wiggle changed.

Oh this is chisel ground. Im just trying to get the line straight. ;)

Just looking for tips on grinding bevels. This one has a wiggle at the base that's driving me crazy, and I haven't been able to get rid of it yet. This is pre-HT and polish, so there's still time to take care of it. Blade is A2, 5" long, 1/16" thick, and 2" wide.

Amen. :(.

Thanks for the advise. What woods are considered oily/rot resistant? I likely won't have it stabilized. These are just repair/refurbs for me and a buddy who salvaged matching blades. Is there anything wrong with linseed oil in the kitchen? I have plenty of that, but it never seems to dry.

Based on the drawings at the beginning of this thread, is it safe to say a couple of the grinds are mixed up in this vid? Or are the grind types interchangable, w/r to v grinds, full flat grind, scandi grind, etc? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3cVhAFzA1U

I did my first Wa style handle on an old refurbished blade this weekend. Mine is straight, ie no taper from machi to butt. I did laminate the ferrule out of mahogany. 3 pieces ripped parallel to the grain, turned 0, 90, 0, and epoxied together. I had trouble with splitting on my first...

I've used a Sharpmaker for years as my finishing grits. I set a bevel slightly lower than the desired Sharpmaker slot, either 15 or 20 degrees per side. Then I finish on the Sharpmaker by adding a microbevel. The back bevel is about 12 degrees for the 15 degree slot, and 17 degrees for the...