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I can't find any 1084 or 1075 in the size I need and was wondering how 1095 would do for a 11" blade parang. I'm confident in the heat treat I'm just worried about it being able to take heavy chopping. I haven't done much with 1095 mostly 1085 and w2.

Yes Verhoeven is a difficult read for me. Thanks Kevin, I just bought metallurgy fundamentals from eBay for less than 14.00 shipped. It is the one published in 1999 . They have the 2005 edition but it is a lot more money so hopefully the one I got is just as good.John, there are a couple more...

Have you read Kevin's heat treat tool box sticky? That helped me more than anything else I have read. Once you have a good understanding of that you can read the free book from Vanheimer but it is not as easy to comprehend as Kevin's. I have to 're read several times but most info still flies...

Ok, thanks Kevin. I had to re-read your heat treat tool box sticky and I'm finally remembering the terminology and things are making sense to me now. It's very generous of you to take the time and share this information with everybody.

Thanks Kevin. I will stick with 1460 with the martensite and make some test blades that are beveled and tapered and do some testing with those. I think the pieces I made are only telling me grain structure. I forgot to say I put them in the oven once full temp was reached and left them in for 13...

Here are the coupons, the first two are the 1460 and the right two are the 1470's. It's hard to tell from the pics but the first two have a slightly finer grain. Kevin, if I'm understanding you it seems the 1470 on the right with the appearance of larger grain is due to shear fracturing? The...

It's 1/4" and it's not tapered all the same thickness throughout. The grain size is really fine in both but the two I did at 1470 was a little larger but only a tad larger than a file. The pieces were all the same size 1/2" x 4" and all 1/4" thick. I placed the coupons in the vice and put the...

Thanks for the response Kevin. I ment to say hr for hour, spell check got me.Yes, I broke the piece with a cheater bar. Would the softer phase be ideal?

I forget to say I tempered all pieces at 400 x 2

I treated four W2 coupons today. All were normalized 1650 to black 1500 to black 1350 to black and two with a 1he 1200 soak. Two were quenched in parks 50 at 1460 and two at 1470. 1 of the 1460 got a 1200 soak and one of the 1470 got a 1200 soak. The 1470 with a 1200 soak was by far the hardest...

Just wanted to say the eyelet dyes from USAKnifeMaker are as good as it gets. I installed them in my arbor press and got perfect eyelets on the first try. Wish I got them sooner. No more cracked eyelets for me.

This is greats advice. I used John Wilson's model and ran some numbers. It is costing me almost twice the amount to make a knife as I thought. Ill use this formula for now on thanks.

So do you estimate how many knives can be made out of each item and divide it by the cost of the item. Add them all together and tack that on to the price of the knife.

20.00 is what I was thinking it takes me. Thanks for responding. Ill probably use 15.00 - 20.00 depending on size.

Just wondering how you guys factor in non material cost's. Do you have a quick and easy formula for adding the cost of a knife not including labor or materials. I mean belts, electricity, sandpaper.

I've used it on stabilized wood and it worked. Although I'm not sure how deep it went so could be a durability issue. I think I have the piece sitting around somewhere. Ill sand it some and see how deep the grain crystallization went.

I've learned more reading this thread than 6 hours of reading a 30.00 book. Photography truly is a art. I'm feeling inspired, thanks.

Great thread. Very informative.

Thanks for sharing. That's just what I'm looking for. My diy tracing paper box and current light just don't cut it. Love the glass idea! It would be neat to try different materials under it or water drops on top.

Ed Caffery not Jeffery. Darn spell check. Third post down from yours. Edge geometry.