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Ok, are you doing the blade etch before or after the stencil etch?

When I acid etch a blade, I don't use the marking side of the switch on the etcher because the acid will etch everything and turn it black anyway. I just go as deep as the etcher will go before I etch. In order for us to be able to help, you need to do an etch on some plain hardened steel to...

Oh yeah, that's sweet.

Thanks guys.

I haven't posted anything lately because I've mostly been making plain vanilla stuff. It aint fun or fancy but hey, it pays the bills. Got an order for something a little more interesting so I thought I'd see what y'all think. 440C, Stag, 416 fittings, with a coined Bronze spacer. 6 1/8" tip to...

Rudy is correct. Since the diamonds in those blades are what did the actual cutting, the body of the blades probably wont make a decent knife. If you can't get an actual spec. sheet from the maker, you can cut a small section and have it tested for its composition. Fastenal and a few other...

Yep green chrome on a hard wheel is the way to go for deburring the edge.

I always start with a sharp 220X. I find that anything coarser than 220X puts small scratches on the bevel just above the edge. I go up to 600X or 1000X depending on the type of cutting a knife will see and finish up by buffing the burr off.

Do you know if those scales are the genuine article or synthetic? Beautiful work either way.

Same as Ed. I use the slack belt area immediately behind the top platen wheel. I run the grinder in reverse with the belt going away so I can see the burr pop up. I would be scared that I would cut the belt by sharpening into the blade, especially on bigger/heavier knives because I like to roll...

Immaculate! I really like the liners, they add just enough contrast to really set off the filework. I see you addressed the issues we talked about on the KITH knife. This one appears to be flawless. Oh, BTW, liner locks are growing on me since I've been carrying yours from time to time.

I just knock the majority off with a 36X belt and then throw on an old 220X to finish them up. I find that 220X is fine enough to see the figure clearly but doesn't take a lot of time. Just keep your rubber belt cleaner/eraser handy to keep the belts clean. If you really wanna make em look nice...

Thickness doesn't matter because 5160 is a deep hardening steel. Canola is a bit fast for 5160. It will definitely get super hard but you run the risk of cracking the blade in the quench.

Glass platens are a wonderful thing. Here is how I attach them. I rough up my platen with a 36X belt, clean it and the glass with denatured alcohol, & use JB Weld to attach it to the platen. I let the JB Weld build up at the bottom of the platen for a shelf. I lay it on its side on a piece of...

I remove the steel from the foil as soon as I can handle it with gloves, check for warpage & correct if necessary, water quench to room temp., dry the water off the blade, & into the LN. I soak for a minimum of 8 hours but longer doesn't hurt anything. Just be sure that you have your equipment...

Just by coincidence, I recently finished this custom order for a customer who wanted what he called a "chisel knife". He specified the materials and design. At first he wanted a saber grind but I steered him toward a full height grind for the same reasons Ed described. This one was left at .025"...

Thanks guys.

Thanks guys, it is really comfy in any position.

While I was making this dashi, I kept mulling over ideas for handle material. Anybody who knows me knows I like stuff that's different and realized that I had never seen a dashi with Stag on it so that settled it. Its 1/4" 3V @ RC 62 with a ~2 5/8" cutting edge and an overall length of approx...

My photography skills don't do this one justice. The 3D Chatoyance of this Koa is outstanding in person. The design and materials were chosen by the customer.