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Well i lucked out today and got my hands on a large bandsaw blade, .055 thick and about an inch wide after i remove the teath... this should work perfectly!

haha thats good to know, and yeah i could jsut do stock removal.... but honestly i hate doing stock removal haha.... nothing wrong with it but its not as enjoyable lol. I will definitly look into the clear Gun-Kote though. any reason why 15n25 and not another carbon steel? like may 80crv2?

So I don't know stainles alloys very much, but is there a stainless alloy that forges somewhat well, that i could use for a fillet knife? I do also have a kiln for heat treatment if that helps so it wouldnt be a forge heat treat.

i will definitely check the air trend out then! how does the face shield part hold up over time?

So, for the past few years I have been using a resp-o-rator while grinding since normal respirators don't work as well with beards, but recently I've been considering getting one of those full face mask ones where the seal is more on your neck than your face so a beard doesn't get in the way...

So, after playing around with hamons on w2 with parks 50, I started wondering, would you think its possible to make a very simple logo appear as a hamon? I have a very simplified logo i sometimes use thats basically an NL merged as one letter... has anyone attempted this or anything similar?

So, while I already have a power hammer, i am tempted to give making a small one a shot. My current one hits nice and hard, but isnt that useful for thinner cross sections like in knives, so I kind of want to give making a small faster hitting one a shot. Based off of a tire hammer type setup...

Welp, 1 down 1 to go

Welp... I'm still going to try the welded eye, but with it being too windy to forge today I started doing your method, and am cutting out s slot after drilling

I could do that. But may also give getting a good carbide milling head and milling a slot I can spread out

Ahh ok, yeah I actually have a bunch of drive shafts from cars, and drifting an eye in that is what made me want to find another way Haha

Honestly I'm not sure what you are trying to say... I would be forge welding it, and drifting the eye alone is a nightmare... especislly on a dog head, hence why I and going to try this design. And they eye may not be exactly that shape . But we will see how durable it ends up. Not sure what...

tested it today and yep, definitely wrought

Well you just sold me on trying out mineral oil haha, I'm not too caught up in having the name brand oil everyone else has as long as I get good results...

well I do generally just focus on 52100, 80crv2 and w2(depending on the knife), but recently picked up some 1095 pretty cheap so wanted to play with that which made me consider a faster quench. Im curious, what contradictions are you talking about? ive found some, especially with w2... I...

So, I am going to be ordering some quench oil soon (have been using canola), and I am debating getting parks 50, or the 11 second mcmaster oil. I know there are certain steels that would do better with the P 50, but my main steels are 52100, 80crv2, and W2, but also started using 1095. I know...

Ok I'll do that, like 99% sure its wrought iron though, I trust the person I got it from

ive tested it and its definitely wrought, long sparks that don't explode like a carbon steel, and you can see the grain(maybe not the best word) of it on the more oxidized parts. im going to cut a chunk and etch it when i get home tonight though, already doing that with the nut on it

the new bar i got was used i think as some sort of tension bar in the beams of an old factory or something like that. I havent used this one yet, just got it this weekend, but the guy i got it from said that this batch forges very well and doesn't split apart. apparently it was a more refined...

Yes I am sure it is wrought iron, and I just gotna new bar of it at a hammer in, why?