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Well, only one way to get that... time to start trying haha Inhave had good results with welding wrought iron in the past though so that should help

Yep I prefer making my own handles so needing to fit store bought ones isnt a concern

Yep, all my forging is done alone, I do have a power hammer, but after trying to drift a hammer eye on it... well for my safety I'm not trying that with that hammer anymore haha. Yeah, I wonder what the best way to minimize weld failure would be? Although axes have been made this way for a while...

i definitely will, and i mean if the welds go well, there shouldn't be any issue. it also will mostly be used for beveling work and shaping, not moving huge amounts of steel, just need to find the right steel to either use as the face or the body

i may give it a shot tonight if i can time... perfect use for my new 1in round bar of wrought iron

So, I am planning on forging up a new doghead hammer, and was thinking that instead of punching and drifting the eye out, why not do a welded eye. either done with the entire body from wrought iron with a steel face, or wrought iron sides and eye with the body/ face being steel Has anyone tried...

ahh ok

where are you located?

Hey, I was wondering if anyone else here was planning on going to the ashokan knife seminarian the 20th?

Maybe a cast aluminum one?

Yeah... that's the main downside I could think of...unless I did a take down construction...

Hearing about waxing the blades just gave me a interesting but possible stupid idea... what If you season a finished knife (before handle) at your tempering temp. So oil the blade then back in the oven... anyone ever try that or is there something. Besides not being able to repair this finish...

I could also try buffing it with 100% beeswax and see what happens

what if most of the texture is polished out? so like the hammer marks are there just smoothed out and the scale pattern is polished away?

So, I was wondering if leaving a clean forged texture on a chefs knife, or something with a similar function would help with food sticking to the blade when cutting. I also would probably wire brush and slightly polish the forged texture so its clean and smooth, but still dimpled from the...

Ok will do

The stencils seem to be 1/16 thick but thicker can work too, and I can put the bevels on the edges since i dont have the measurements for them, so it will be trial and error. What would you want for making a stencil?

The stencils are usually either 1.25 or 2.75 tall, but that's whith the edges tsperd to fit in the slot,

Ahh ok, I dont see why steel couldnt work too, but I'll have to see the depth the mark is, my guess was between 1/32 and 1/16

How deep would you think you could go?