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I think for the heavy grit the 3m yellow belts (I think they are 977) outlast the Norton blaze belts. Both are very good though. I use 3m all the way now days. The gator belts last forever.

Don't do it! You'll never be able to find anything until it's a mess again.:9:

Do you need a certain program on the computer? I tried plugging into the USB port but nothing happens. Maybe Mike can help me figure out next time he's out this way.

If you got the time to put in to it and been wanting to make an integral it would be hard to pass up trying. If your talking some real fancy integral that would never be used anyway it really wouldn't matter what grade it is unless the buyer cared. Why not just cut a small chunk off the corner...

Oh yeah I forgot it was that thick, it's a shame you don't know what it is for sure.

Franklin, If you don't know for sure what it is make a test blade and see how hard it gets and how it cuts. It still may make some good kitchen knives or like I said some cake knives or something. I just can't see making a custom hunting knife or any knife that will see hard use out of...

Wow there are some very cool pics on this thread. I can't post many cell pics because I don't have texting or internet service on my phone so it cost me to send pics to computer. If someone else knows a way please let me know. I'd love to take more cell pics but I'm too cheap to pay for the...

Ditto on Johns HT recipe for CPM 154. If it's a thick blade I'll hold for 30.

440 grades have fairly wide ranges of carbon content. Any of the 440C still makes a good knife but the difference I've seen in just different suppliers of 440C I would in no way put my name on anything of lesser grade for hunting or other heavy use. The 440A and B used in production knives is...

One of these days I'm going to make a perfect one. Concerning hand stitching, the machines speed things up but don't make it better. A lot of my modern gear is machine sewn but I hand saddle stitch my period gear with Barbours linen thread. If both are done right the hand stitching still...

Mike and I did a twist piece with camo colors a while back but haven't used it yet to see how it turned out.

Mine are on my shop tour http://www.fendleyknives.com/shoptour.htm

If a handle is shaped well grip is not a problem. I sand my satin finished blade handles to 600 grit, the mirror finish knives I sand to a fine scotchbrite and buff. I can't tell a grip difference between satin finish and polished.

Chuck, thanks for that bit of wisdom. I'm no expert on that subject and have had friendly debates with a couple of my friends from time to time when they insist on calling their shot bag a possibles bag. My uncle who first introduced me to period firearms and accessories had correctly it...

My wife got that book for me for Christmas couple years ago, still haven't made one though. My stuff gets put on the back burner whether it be knives or leather. Or like you I usually wind up selling them. I did manage to make myself a couple gun rigs last fall and have managed to hold onto one...

Chuck, you outdone yourself on this one! I don't know what else to say. I've been wanting to make myself a bag for a long time but cant seem to find the time, this makes me want one even more.

Beautiful knife!

The aluminum plates will suck the heat out, much faster than normal air quenching. I know a guy that oil quenches ATS and 154cm with great results so I guess any of it works. Every since I tried the plates that is my preferred method.

Plate quenching works good. Never used oil on it. Just like ATS or 154 CM.

I already know how it holds up, gooooooood:biggrin: