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Everything is snow covered here now. I think it's supposed to get back up above freezing on Wed.

It's more money but I would lean toward Enco and get a Rong Fu. If your patient you can catch them with free shipping from time to time. I don't mean to bash anyones stuff but the Grizzly equipment I've seen is all China and not too good. I've got a little lathe from them and I had to do a bunch...

I'm in and will take #4 with me.

yes, the tracking wheel needs to be crowned so it will track straight. The belt will always try to run on the high spot. You might be able to run a few wraps of 1 inch wide tape around the middle of the top one and get by for a while.

I flat grind before HT the blend it into the edge and make it convex after. Edge up before HT, edge down after. I was never shown how to convex grind so don't know if this is the best way or not but this has been what worked for me. There may be a better way, don't know.

It's better edge holding by a pretty good margin but I don't have any percentages. Performance wise it's more like D2 than 440C and the XHP is basically a cross between the two. The XHP can be considered either a high carbon 440C or a true stainless D2. Carpenter has a powdered 440C that is...

That ht is on except skip the cryo. I have been experimenting with this steel for almost a year now. Just got off the phone with their metallurgist and we discussed cryo. He said don't do it just get the rest of it right and that you'll sacrifice toughness doing cryo on top of a properly...

I just got off the phone with a Carpenter Metallurgist following up on the availability of some more CTS-XHP. Everything he has sent me on heat treatment and testing their product he never mentioned cryo so I asked him their thoughts on cryo. He said there is no advantage provided your heat...

I put Macassar Ebony on the first knife I ever made and it's still fine. Guess I got lucky.

That's not much tooling and it's an old M head machine, still a great price if working. Mike, there's your mill, rent a truck and take off after it, I'd go but have to work the next few days. Call me when you get back and I'll help you wrestle it in the shop.:biggrin:

Also on a pouch type sheath without a welt the user could fall or the handle could get hit pushing the blade through the threads and cause injury. A freak accident is one thing but if there is an obvious design flaw it could lead to a lawsuit. Your sheaths look really good, just consider those...

Definitely add a welt. Doesn't matter how far the threads are from the blade when situated perfectly in the sheath. When the blade is drawn it can and will eventually slice the threads.

They vary in size but around 5inch x1 1/2-1/3/4 seems fairly common. Close to an inch thick or around 3/8 if scales. Hard and dense woods are ideal. A agree with James, I like to have any natural material for a while before using it. I prefer at least a year and two or three years is better...

Wow! Nice trophy room Steve. I'd like to get a few like that but will have to get real lucky or travel to other areas or hunt on a larger track of land. They don't let them live long enough to get that big here. It gets pretty frustrating letting decent but young deer walk and they get shot when...

We thought it Mikecarta sounded enough like it they would still cry about it. Just to inform anyone who wasn't aware Norplex sent out letters last year apparently to a bunch of people regarding the use of the term Micarta. When we got the letter the funny thing it was from a guy named Chris...

I'm with Ed I do it by hand, only takes a couple twists and do it at some point of the final hand sanding the handle. I use the same tool for chamfering brass when reloading.

I run the groover over the front then the overstitch wheel on front to mark the holes. Punch the holes in the front side with a small special made round punch (AKA a finish nail) in my press. Now glue it together and clean the back edge up even with the front and run the groover over the back...

I didn't mean to make it sound that bad, it IS an awesome machine. In fact when I got my first one I thought it was the greatest thing since sliced bread. Now that I have seen and used others I just don't think they are the best even though I own two of them. Of course I also have three Bader...

Just my input. I've got two of the Bader's like you see Gil using in the photos. One I bought new when I started knifemaking and the other I built from the frame and other parts I found on Ebay. They are good machines but I could build a better one and would build it more like a Tracy's design...

The shows are down but I have to disagree on Blade. Attendance was WAY down also. Usually there is a huge line of people waiting to get in when the show opens and this year it wasn't longer than the width of the hallway. The Knifemakers Guild show is the only good show and putting them all to...