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Hello Everyone, here is a knife I made to be used by one of my oldest friends. He is a cowboy and a firefighter. I trust that he will use it a lot. The blade is pretty thin, but not too thin, if you now what I mean. I textured the copper to work harden it, and also so scratches wouldn't...

thanks Dan and Jeremiah. This one took months to make (they all do, actually). Still, I was really glad when I finished it. Glad that you liked it. kc

believe it or not, I have never seen one of those before. Interesting design. I like them. kc

Thanks, Dan. This is the most complex non-Chinese thing I have ever made. I am pretty happy with it, though next time I am making the post for the nagel shaped like a D or a rectangle instead of round. It took HOURS of peening to get it stable. I should have thought of how much pressure it would...

I like this one, good blade, cool wood

you don't even have to use canola for o1 or 5160, just use whatever cooking oil you can get. Or mineral oil. Either will do fine. If you can get 80crv2, then leave the 5160 alone. Heat treat by quenching in medium oil. best luck. Let us see some of your blades when done!

I love those grind lines. that is a seriously-cool knife. kc

that is a great knife. The little groove running around the butt end of the knife is a nice touch. kc

Hello Everyone, I just finished this one. I made myself a forge/twisting machine thingy (Twist-o-matic 3000) and I wanted to test it. So, I needed to do a multi-bar construction. I also wanted to play with 80crv2, o1, and 15n20. These steels are a lot tougher and more abrasive resistant than...

rock on James!

I am not a student of Japanese swords, but that looks very nice to me. good work. kc

damn. that is a good one seriously. rock on![

those look really good! glad to see you back. kc

Hello Again, I have finally managed to get this polished. I must say, the 80crv2 was really abrasion resistant. At least, compared to the W2, W1, and 1075 that I am used to. This is the first twisted composite blade this large I have made in a long time, and the first one that wasn't a seax. I...

I had the same problem, especially when I ground from a rest. I made myself a platen from heat treated D2. It wears much better. I affixed it with JB weld. When it gets worn, I will anneal it, surface it with the mill, and re-harden. JB weld can take the heat, but I am hoping I can get it to...

Darrin, here is a link to a thread about the o1 80crv2 messer: http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?36942-pattern-welded-grosse-messer-wip&p=290995#post290995

I should start working on the hilt some time this weekend. I have to file and polish today! Here is a pic post heat treatment (there was almost zero distortion in these steels). For a person used to water and clay, it was a relief to quench tool steel in veggie oil. No drama, really. This...

OK, no new pics, but the blade has SURVIVED HEAT TREATMENT. It is straight, and in its second tempering. After forging, I patiently straightened at just the dullest red heat, for a crazy number of cycles to get everything absolutely straight. Then, I did a stress relieve/spheroidal anneal...

still working on it. I think that files are the greatest tool ever invented. You will see a definite trend to this series of pics. Here, I am filing the transition from blade to handle that was begun with a 2" wheel, and drawfiling tang. This is a full-tang shortsword. Here I am using a...

Ok, to continue this saga... cleaning and squaring. The bars must have a rectangular cross-section, and be flat, so they can fit together for the next weld. This is crucial. Into the forge for welding, with temporary handle. I had to use flux to weld these together. I can only get away...